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Bolts on Hard Left

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 9:28 pm
by jrathfon
hey everybody,

my buddy and i checked out hard left for the first time, sunday. looks like a fun sweet line, and seeing the pic in the old bronaugh book, definitely makes it look easier. staring up at the blank face, we were like, what? we have to traverse to that hueco? 30ft left? blank face? are there holds? pro? ya, turns out it's way easy there.

but what skeebed us the most were the bolts. they are right in a drip line from the overhanging roof. bolt 1 is an incredibly rusted 3/8", probably would hold. bolt 2 is a 1/4 incher not visibly rusty on the outside, but is right in a drip and is the same vintage as bolt 3. bolt 3 is a DEATH TRAP! a super rusty (i mean looks like it was pulled out of salt water with lumps on it) 1/4". not that i plan on falling on this route, but it could spell a bad time for another party.

i moved down to louisville last month and have hit the red 5 of 6 weekends, love it. but i'm not in the know on how this stuff works. is there a way to donate and earmark money for this route? are there people out there updating routes? is this in one of the bolt sensitive areas?

any help would be great, i feel this route deserves a 3ish stars, but the rusties and 1/4 inchers detract a lot from it.

thanks,
jeremy

Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:34 pm
by kato
Detracts?? It's reminiscent!

Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:50 pm
by Jeff
Maybe submit to Teamsuck.
At the same time, a friend and I were talking about replacing the bolts on Hemisphere.
Not sure if we will get to it anytime soon though, but if/when 3 bolts on hard left are no big deal.
Need to do that route again anyway.

Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:11 pm
by ynot
cool route. it deserves some upgrade.

Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:27 pm
by jrathfon
i understand the nostalgia, but having fallen onto and sheared two different 1/4" 70's bolts which both resulted in circa 60ft falls, i've learned to distrust them.

so how do i submit this to teamsuck?

Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:55 pm
by Jeff
http://teamsuckclimbing.com/

Not that Blake can do EVERYTHING around here.

Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:07 pm
by jrathfon
dun