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Hanger Failure in the Cascades...
Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 5:28 am
by Jay
Crazy stuff...anybody seen any old Kong hangers like these in the Red?
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... s/903599/1
*edited for correct hanger type- thanks Wes!*
Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 12:59 pm
by Saxman
Hey bolters, is this true?
From that thread:
"Wowza for sure....thanks for the pics and as a side note, I fully expect the plated steel Powers 5 piece (aka Rawl 5 piece) bolts to be failing in a similar manner for our children...if not sooner. They rust at a place it isn't visible to the eye, where the thread starts and meets the bolt body. It ain't gonna be pretty I expect when it starts, and you can't remove them like folks think, because they are rusted in there tight. They start this within a short time and are not removable without snapping the bolt. Then the placement is screwed. Better just to plug in the stainless first IMO. The cost is like $3 bucks for a 1/2" diameter SS wedge anchor vs what? Not a lot less for a steel 5 piece."
Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 1:20 pm
by Wes
They said it was an old Kong, not smc. I have an old smc hanger (1/4" bolt hole!), but *usually* when we replace bolts we leave the same hangers.
These routes were put up in the early 90's, around the same as some of the early rrg routes. And, usually, I can't tell how bad a bolt is til I break it off after installing a new one. I have no doubt there will be a total bolt failure at the red sometime soon, as there are plenty of time bombs out there. And $3 instead of $1 sounds fine for a bolt, but start doing the math with a couple thousands bolts, and the difference isn't so small.
I would love to see every bolt older then 10 years in the rrg replaced. And, I would love to see every bolt replaced with fat 1/2 x 8" stainless rebar stock and glue. But, just imagine the time and $$$ involved. Plus, everyone wants new routes to always be going up, and very few people want to take the time to go back and replace the old stuff.
Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 1:27 pm
by RRO
there are more than enough routes in the red. prob been a route a day for the last few years, kinda insane if you think about it.
i say every bolter stop putting up new lines. spend that time and money replacing old bolts.
doesnt bring the same fame and glory as developing but is a job that has to be done.
Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 3:55 pm
by kneebar
RRO wrote:there are more than enough routes in the red. prob been a route a day for the last few years, kinda insane if you think about it.
i say every bolter stop putting up new lines. spend that time and money replacing old bolts.
doesnt bring the same fame and glory as developing but is a job that has to be done.
Do yo even climb anymore fluff, I heard you just run around in the woods on a bike!
Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:08 pm
by Ascentionist
He never climbed in the first place, it was a body double.
Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:45 pm
by RRO
you both are right, i never climbed.....im just tall
Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 12:37 pm
by krampus
As always, what about places like funk rock and sky bridge, is there any talk with the forest service or are clandestine operations a must. I don't want to die on a rout named the infidel. (no need to be pointed out, just in case those religious types are correct)