--->Does anybody know about the kick ass variation on Dogleg(it breaks right instead of left) at Bob Marley? Grade? Who put it up? Name? It is one of sweetest routes I have been on lately.
--->Velvet is cool.
--->Has that Arete route gone? (Left of Dogleg)
Bob Marleycrag
Dogleg is one of my favoritest routes in the red. The bolts that go up left, stop with no anchors. So I think dogleg is actually the one that goes up to the right. I think the route on the arete already went, because their were draws up on it for about a week or two right after it was bolted and then they were gone. Not sure who has the FA on either. Did you send. I am one fall away from sending, so I now have to wait until fall to send.
Living the dream
The guidebook clearly says "route is the long one that angles left" for Dogleg 12a. The route I am talking about goes right, away from the left leaning ramp.
No I didn't send. I couldn't pull the second undercling move to the pocket. I can lock it down with my left foot up. But that leaves me 2 inches short. The bolt is in a wierd place so you can yard on it to work the top section. It is a little less reachy but very solid moves. The whole route had draws on it yesterday and it was bone dry even in the downpour.
No I didn't send. I couldn't pull the second undercling move to the pocket. I can lock it down with my left foot up. But that leaves me 2 inches short. The bolt is in a wierd place so you can yard on it to work the top section. It is a little less reachy but very solid moves. The whole route had draws on it yesterday and it was bone dry even in the downpour.
The line that goes up and right was bolted by Keith Moll. I was there with him last fall and he let a bunch of us climb it on TR, as he was still trying to get the FA on it. I did it clean on my second go on TR and it is a reachy sucker with a kinda sandy finish but is pretty good none the less. I don't know if he ever sent the thing.
I can't remember what he said about the line that goes left to the ramp... I believe he started bolting that but it turned out to be unclimbable, and that is why it isn't finished.
The aret to the right Keith bolted too and he said that anyone there that day could get the FA on it as he didn't care for it too much. None of us got on it as we were having so much fun with the other line.
That is all I have... that is cool that it stays dry!
I can't remember what he said about the line that goes left to the ramp... I believe he started bolting that but it turned out to be unclimbable, and that is why it isn't finished.
The aret to the right Keith bolted too and he said that anyone there that day could get the FA on it as he didn't care for it too much. None of us got on it as we were having so much fun with the other line.
That is all I have... that is cool that it stays dry!