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best 5.7 sport route for some one new to leading

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 2:33 am
by across410
been top roping outside for a decade(i know i know) lead inside.
headin down to muir the third of aug... what would some one suggest for a first outdoor lead....ok with a 5.10 lead inside (no sand baggin i like my kids)

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 2:55 am
by p0bray01
I assume since you have led inside you are inquring on sport routes. :)

CH4 is good. Send me on my way is amazing and is rated a 9 but is soft. A-Beano I think may be a 7 too but can't remember off the top of my head.

Anything at the Practice Wall might be fun to get your feet wet and head into the game, there are a bunch of easy stuff couple of 6's and few 7's over there as well. Have fun and be safe!

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 3:02 am
by across410
yes looking for sport...your input is appreciated..not looking to spend a vacation day on loosin draws due to walls out of my skill level

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 3:17 am
by Josephine
the offering would be the best 5.7 in my opinion - BUT - there is a potential to hit the ledge if you mess up the anchors. i could TR 5.9 in the gym and that was my first outdoor lead and i messed it up. :-(

glory and consequence would be a better lead even though it's not the better climb. bring a stick clip for the first bolt.

harvey wasn't bad either. not sure how you feel about slab climbing though.

remember that you can do an advanced search in the online guide and search by grades. there really aren't that many 5.7's to pick from.

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 4:12 am
by Ascentionist
Ringo

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 5:00 am
by reospeed
go to bruise brothers

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:14 pm
by cliftongifford
reospeed wrote:go to bruise brothers
agree.

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:19 pm
by kek-san
Ro shampo

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:23 pm
by Andrew
blue plate special

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:52 pm
by gripster
if you can lead 5.10 in the gym then you will probably be fine on most of the 5.10s in muir. And if not, the bolts are close enough together where you could A0 you way to the anchors and not have to worry about sacrificing any gear. If Send me on My Way doesn't give you any trouble, then try one of the easier 10's first, like Rat stew. I am willing to bet you will be fine.