RRC Archives

howdy folks!

My name is Arthur and my partner and I are going to be passing through the red for a few days in august. We have done a lot of stout climbs in the gunks and we were wondering what the best 5.8 trad for us to work on while we are here is. I have doubles of most BD cams so gear wise I am very prepared.

ps. my car is a fairly new lexus so I cannot take it on any rough roads. But I did just get a new pair of la sportiva approach shoes so I can handle any trail .

Go to Tower rock. There's 3 good 8's there you will like and its a nice place. There are lots of good 8's and 9's in the Red.

Stout = 5.8? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Do Whiteout. And if you want something a little more remote do Lunatic Fringe. Best 5.8 in the red....

Saxman wrote:Stout = 5.8? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

he's from the Gunks. a 5.8 in the Gunks is no joke.

Arthur - the Gunks is an awesome area, but the red doesn't have any real multipitch trad like what you're used to.

the red is a fantastatic single pitch sport climbing area. i would suggest that you and your partner try some of the really good sport routes. use the online guidebook and search for 4 and 5 star 5.8's and 5.9's - that should give you plenty to do.

Just took a look at Tower Rock on the online guide and it seems like most stuff is single pitch. Where are the good multi pitch lines? My old climbing partner always used to say "Bedtime for Bonzo" is a great climb. I defently want to try that climb , he has told me many stories about how epic that lead is .

Joesephine- you are right, the gunks is a great climbing area (but bring your nuts if you know what I mean ). In that spirit, I really want to sample some of the Red's stout and run out lines. Besides "Bedtime for Bonzo," what would you guys recommend?

Best,
Arthur

Sorry, very, very little multi pitch climbing in the red. Very. Little. And what there is usually is one good pitch with another pitch or two of less good climbing.

But, if you want to skip the world class sport and single pitch trad lines to do crappy multi pitch, you can add these lines to you to do list

Nevermore
Jungle beat
the quest 5.10 though
frenchberg overhangs
firefox
hair of the dog
GI
Snake to where lizards dare can kinda be like a multi pitch route, if you are desperate, I guess.

Come on, this has troll written all over it guys.

go to table rock NC and get on white lightning, then swing over and do second coming, followed by hidden cracks. that should give you your fix.

I hear there's an awesome new line at Phantasia by the Overlord.