To the left of Lord of the Flies before you go around the corner to Overlord, there is a 45 ft. left pointing flake. This crack starts with two hand sized cracks that lead up into an off width. Chicken wing up the crack. Climb out onto the face where the flake leans left overhead. Finish on the ledge, and rap off the same anchors as Overlord.
This is about a 5.7. I would give it a PG rating because of the loose rocks and breaking holds.
This climb was not in the book I have, and the party climbing next to my wife and I could not find it in their literature either.
If this crack is already named, please let me know; otherwise, I want to name it "Look Out Alex Super Tramp" because of the 10 lb rock that came out of the crack and almost hit my dog.
Potential First Ascent on Phantasia Wall
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JohnBenningfield
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2009 2:00 am
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captain static
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- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
To the Forest Service "development" means leaving any fixed gear: bolts, bolted anchors, fixed slings, fixed pro and clearing of vegetation or trail building. As long as none of that is involved, no prior approval is required. Also, since this is an existing crag, the Forest Service has already looked to see if there are any cultural or biological resources that could be impacted by climbing. If this was a new crag it might be a different story.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Re: Potential First Ascent on Phantasia Wall
Heh, it is always funny to see "FA's" of easy cracks at established crags. Pretty sure that thing has been done more then a few times, just too nasty to bother with a guidebook entry.JohnBenningfield wrote:To the left of Lord of the Flies before you go around the corner to Overlord, there is a 45 ft. left pointing flake. This crack starts with two hand sized cracks that lead up into an off width. Chicken wing up the crack. Climb out onto the face where the flake leans left overhead. Finish on the ledge, and rap off the same anchors as Overlord.
This is about a 5.7. I would give it a PG rating because of the loose rocks and breaking holds.
This climb was not in the book I have, and the party climbing next to my wife and I could not find it in their literature either.
If this crack is already named, please let me know; otherwise, I want to name it "Look Out Alex Super Tramp" because of the 10 lb rock that came out of the crack and almost hit my dog.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
