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I've heard comments from users of the Online Guidebook that the *** ratings are pretty useless. Asking why they think this is so, their response was that "everything's either a **** or ***** rating!". I did a little checking and here's what I found:

User Ratings: 1852 routes rated

Rating / Number / % / Cumulative %

Zero * / 349 / 19% / 19%
* / 89 / 5% / 24%
** / 329 / 18% / 41%
*** / 587 / 32% / 73%
**** / 429 / 23% / 96%
***** / 69 / 4% / 100%


Guide Bood Ratings: 1698 routes rated

Rating / Number / % / Cumulative %

Choss / 1 / 0% / 0%
* / 240 / 14% / 14%
** / 377 / 22% / 36%
*** / 590 / 35% / 71%
**** / 390 / 23% / 94%
***** / 100 / 6% / 100%

If Mythbusters got ahold of this argument, they'd say it was BUSTED

I think the star ratings are very useful. The real problem (not that it's a problem) is that there are so many classic routes in the Red!

Ray: have all of the ratings online been converted to the five star system?

Everyone else: rate the shit you get on or don't use the spray list. The more remote the crag, the more important the votes become. I don't think any more votes are going to help Ro, but a lot of the shit at Purple Valley have few to no votes on grade or quality. Since no one but Pawilkes is attempting to climb every route in the red under 13A, the votes help.

well, what does a 3 out of 5 star rating mean anyway, would you not expect a bell curve when distributing rout quality. Since when does average mean exceptional? A 3 star rout is one that is worth doing a 5 star rout is a must do. 1 and 2, just climb it cus you love to climb and quit bitching about rock quality. Based on the above numbers, looks like the star rating is spot on.

still need a zero star rating, cause in the current system you have to vote one star or not vote. and some routes are zero stars. as it stands, a route rating can never go below 1.0....

agreed a 0 star rating is needed

pigsteak wrote:still need a zero star rating, cause in the current system you have to vote one star or not vote. and some routes are zero stars. as it stands, a route rating can never go below 1.0....

bullshit, i have climbed at curbside and still believe that no rout deserves a 0 star

climbed "at" curbside, but have you climbed my routes on the far left? you might change your mind.

plenty of routes deserve a zero star.

Saxman wrote: rate the shit you get on or don't use the spray list.

I agree people should rate routes for difficulty and quality to help out others. I rate everything I've done. However, I don't think you should weigh in on a route unless you sent. For instance, if you're a 5.10 climber flailing your way up a 12 on TR, maybe not even doing all the moves, are you really qualified to rate it?

Also...

Never heard anybody say the star ratings are useless.

There should be zero stars for some things.

To get 5 stars, a route should be long (70 feet minimum), aesthetic (interesting from start to finish), and exposed. The Red does have a lot of classics!

If you don't agree with the consensus, cast your vote to help bring the average back in line.

Lander wrote:

Saxman wrote:If you don't agree with the consensus, cast your vote to help bring the average back in line.

exactly, if no one else voted online then odub's opinion would be the only one heard on every rout. People would think the red was nothing but soft chossy routs, and that there is no trad worth a crap here.

Oh, an I have been to the left at curbside. some of the best 1 star routs around, of course the right side has some of my favorites at the red so my opinions might be skewed