What are the best 10 sport climbing areas in the west USA?

Post by **oliver** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 2:50 am

Hy all,

we are going for a 6 week long climbing vaccation in the west of USA. Could someone knowledged help us with some suggestions - which climbing areas SHOULD we visit??

We are a family with two kids. Though they are used to stay at the ground while we are climbing, we are limited to single pitch sport routes with not too long approaches.

So, what would be the 10 best climbing areas in the west providing single pitch sport routes?

Many thanks for all useful comments in advance,
Oliver

Post by **littlefeller** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 11:28 am

you should check out the black hills south dakota. the mt rushmore area and custard state park area have short aproaches. custard state park has a campground and you can walk to all of the climbs.there are also alot of 5.4-5.5 sport routes all over the area so your kids could climb also.another area that comes to mind,allthough ive never been there is maple canyon utah. ive herd the aproaches are short and the campground is close to a couple areas that you can walk there. maybe wild iris in wyoming there is free camping at the city parkin lander.

Post by **StephyG** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 11:34 am

Good recommendations! I'll second that Maple canyon is a choice destination. The kids will probably love it too!

Post by **Artsay** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 12:12 pm

Do you want sport, trad, or both?

Post by **Johnny** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 1:14 pm

Wild Iris, Big Sinks, WY
Shelf Road, Table Mountain, CO
Owens River Gorge, CA

Post by **Power2U** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 1:20 pm

Have fun...6 weeks will go by fast. Just last year my wife and I took a 4 month trip out west, climbing and sight seeing, it was a blast and went way too fast. Since you asked specifically for sport areas with short approaches I will give you the ones I have been to that meet your criterea, but be sure to check the seasonality of each area, as that makes a big difference out West.
1.) The Enchanted Tower, Datil, NM - Awesome! 5.8 to 5.13 cushy free camping and no approach to speek of. Just call the gym in NM for access and the combination to the gate. Check out www.drtopo.com for a guide to the area.
2.) Maple Canyon, UT is definitely good as for the reasons stated above. 5.6 to 5.14, the ratings here tend to be soft for the most part too.
3.) La Petit Verdon aka: The Pit Flagstaff, AZ great limestone right outside of flag.
5.9 to 5.13.
4.) St. George, UT...Awesome...there is everythig here... sights, Zion & Bryce, and lots of climbing...Snow Canyon state park, Chuckwalla Wall (a recent cover shot on Rock and Ice from this cliff, check it out) Turtle wall, Sumo wall, Black Rocks. Here is St. george you have Navajo Sandstone, Limestore & volcanic rock, the only draw back is that it is hotter then #@&& this time of year!
5.) Red Rocks, NV is great too but again HOT!
6.) The Wild Iris in WY may be good along with Black Hills, mentioned above as it is cooler this time of year. There is a bunch of climbing up that way.

I hope this helps some... have a great time

Post by **SikMonkey** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 1:30 pm

Any place that has dry rock to climb.

Mj

Post by **Artsay** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 2:21 pm

Sport: Logan Canyon, Ut ... Maple Canyon, Ut ... American Fork, Ut (crowded as hell but may be good for your purposes) ... Shelf Road, Co. ... Wild Iris, Wy
Trad: Cottonwoods, Ut ... Lumpy Ridge, Co ...

I wouldn't recommend Owens for your trip because the approach is kinda tough and it's also pretty dang hot there in the summer.

Post by **Rags** » Fri Jun 13, 2003 2:26 pm

We had a good time at Oak Creek Canyon just out of Flagstaff, it's all trad though 5.6- 5.11 on black basalt, one or two pitches high! If you are in to an "outdoor gym" atmosphere go to Jack's Canyon outside of Winslow, AZ! That crag has been chipped and drilled all over the place but the rock is finger friendly limestone and has a huge variety of soft rated sport climbs (5.6-5.13). The camping is on top of the face, really close by. (I'd say its pretty hot now though).
Penitente canyon in Southern Colorado is kinda cool, too...

Post by **Sam** » Sun Jun 15, 2003 10:26 pm

If you are in Boulder, CO and want to take a short, half-day trip check out Golden. It's got some fun sport routes close to the road. Don't forget to eat at BJ's pizzeria and mircrobrew afterward. Mmmmmm. Forget Sportpark whatever you do.