Bare Metal Teen

[bcombs]

I'm staying at Torrent for the weekend and like any fledgling, number chasing, wannabe hard sport climber I took a look at what "project" I might take on for the weekend.

I was psyched about trying this until I saw Thomas' comment about it being hard. Now I'm scared.

So can anyone give me any beta for this thing? Or is it just to make sure you are a 14a climber so it still feels like 12a. Is it endurance or bouldery? Any rests? Should I stick with Wadcutter instead?

[rhunt]

Ton of fun, tons of rests and takes tons of endurance. It would be a waste of the oppritunity to climb at torrent if you didn't get on it.

[pawilkes]

Here's my two cents: we're of similiar ability according to our spray lists, although you've sent a few more 12s. I think I was able to one hang the route last year, so I think you could work to at least that by the end of the weekend if not more. Getting to the 5th bolt is pretty easy, clipping it is where the business starts. from there maybe 20-25 feet of harder climbing and then the last couple bolts are pretty chill. If you want to bag another 12 while you're there, get on Us and Them. its ~11b/c to a v2/3 boulder problem to an easy mantle and the chains. pretty fun, stays dry in the rain and it gets good afternoon shade.

[Thomas8696]

if you are at torrent, this is one of the best routes there----a must do! I thought it was hard because I meandered around like an idiot doing all the sequences wrong. Its pretty straight forward and fun once your figure it out!!! beautiful line none the less. Climb it up!

[Wes]

Bare metal is solid 12a, but not as hard as everyone makes it out to be for the grade. Climb 4 bolts, get a full recovery hand jam, next clip is tough, but there is trick beta. Next clip you just need to relax your shoulders on the slopers and stem. Make one more little boulder problem, then jugs. Cool route that rewards subtly more then some others.

[toad857]

if you can rest on the big open-handed thing near the long draw about mid way up, you will send this route. that is all that it takes. seriously.

[chriss]

BMT is a great route, you should get on it Brad. For what its worth, I found this route more difficult than mercy the huff.

I second pawilkes comments on us and them. Also a cool route, a bit more techy than pumpy.

[Wes]

If it felt harder the mercy, you might have missed some of the beta.

Really, it is kinda bouldery climbing to the fourth bolt - you can get a killer, full recovery hand jam rest. Or, if you have little hands, a kinda arm wrap, or heal hook, knee thing. Something is there for you. Then another little boulder problem to what could be a hard clip, unless you get the killer heel toe cam out left, or if you are a yoga person, the double kneebar. The heel toe won't let you rest, but does make the clip a lot easier. You can rest a bit on the kneebars, depending on how good you get them. Next up, another boulder problem, to a good sloper. If you can relax your shoulders and find the good feet, you can shake and rest here as well. One more boulder problem, and you are on big holds the rest of the way. What I found, was that, subtle beta - using a slightly different foot, or grabbing a pocket a certain way, made the route feel way easier. Fun route, just wish I could make it back to the 5th bolt again...

[chriss]

If it felt harder the mercy, you might have missed some of the beta.

If it felt easier than mercy, you might have missed some of the beta (on mercy). It must have fit you better than me, whereas Mercy hit me better (v1/v2 boulder problem jug, rinse, repeat). I always felt that BMT was very hard for the grade, but a great route.

Let us know what you think Brad, looks like you did mercy somewhat recently.

[Wes]

Hard to say, I guess. But, probably just fit me a bit better, as I had mercy pretty dialed as well, and get a killer hand jam toward the top of it as well. Oh, and mercy was 12c when I did it, so it must have gotten easier since then....