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sooooo, I never been to the red. I know, I know, sucks to be me, right? Right.

That's why I'll be making my way down there for the first time in a few weeks. It is a long awaited, and often postponed pilgrimage, and god knows when the opportunity will present itself again (maybe when the kids are off to college (my youngest is 18 months old)) Obviously I'll want to make the most of the week I have to climb there, and good beta is essential for that. And that's where that long rambling post half of you have already stopped reading comes in. Rather than asking for some general info that old forum users have already provided a hundred times before, I thought I'd come up with more specific questions to complement the info I've already found through the guidebook and this website.

Some background: We'll be driving down from Montreal (16-17 hour drive?) somewhere around the 25th of May and we have seven days total, including the drive there and back, so maybe five days on site. I've been toying with the idea of faking a serious car meltdown to extend our stay a bit, but it would be just like my wife to not buy it one second. The goal of the trip is to taste as much of the red as possible, so we won't be chasing numbers, we'll be chasing stars. And by "as much of the red as possible," I don't mean cracks, of course. And if you'll tell me that chasing stars and chasing numbers are the same thing at the red, I'll say "fine, I have a comfortable harness." sooooo, my puzzlements:

1. Crags to see, crags to avoid. After studying the guidebook, I figured these six crags to be the best for classic 10s and 11s (and easy 12s). I looked at the number of 3 stars + routes within our range, the approach (short is better, since we're not there for the trails), and the different styles of the crags (again, trying to make it as worthwhile as possible in a ridiculously short amount of time):
Military Wall, Left Flank, Phantasia Wall, Roadside Crag, Drive-by Crag, Bruise Brothers Wall.

I don't see how we would have time to visit more than five or six crags. Should any of these not be on my "not to be missed" list? Are there others I should definitely add to a first trip five day rampage instead?

2. Considering our style--we are mostly Rumney climbers, a bit low on endurance (euphemism), with ok technique and used to "awkward" climbing--Are there crags or routes that should be added/removed? (don't tell me to not bother showing up at all, it's not funny)

3. Crowds. We're trying to plan the trip to avoid climbing in the weekend. Will crowds be a problem at any of these crags at this time of year during the week?

4. Weather. We expect it to be somewhat hot and humid, but it shouldn't be worse than climbing around our parts in the middle of July during a hot streak. Right? Still, are there crags that are simply impossible to endure on warm days? Is there one crag in particular that can transform an otherwise "inferno" day into a tolerable cragging day?

5. Cooling down. Rumney is nice because there's a river within a fifteen minute walk from the cliffs where everyone can chill out on warm days, when it's too hot to climb in the early afternoon. Any such place we should know about?

6. Camping. So Miguel is THE climber campground, that much I figured. I wonder though how comfortable camping is at that time of year, compared to, let's say, renting a cabin. How is Miguel's campground around late May/early June?
6a. Are the evenings cool enough to sleep well?
6b. Is it easy to find choice campsites with trees and shade ( is it full of people during the week at that time of the season?)
6c. Are there so many bugs you can't even stay out of your tent come nightfall?
6d. Pretending for a moment we are not financially challenged, is renting a cabin a much better option to spend nice evenings? (Not that I need luxury, but besides being a climbing trip, this is alos my vacation, if you see what I mean) And if so, any place you recommend?
6e. Is Miguel's campground such a cool "scene" that it is part of the Red's experience and shouldn't be missed?

7. Say I could only do one climb in the 11a/b range and one in the 11d/12a range, which should they be.

Wow, thanks, really, for reading all the way through, now let's hope some of you are at the office and have nothing better to do than answer way too many questions from a tourist.

I didn't read past "sooooo", but....

1) Camp at Miguels or Lago Linda's if you want some quiet.
2) Visit the classics like Military, Left Flank, Roadside during the week to avoid the traffic.
3) Visit the obscure areas on the weekends to avoid the traffic.

Hope that helps...

1) avoid bruise bros. it's full sun. it will be hot and crowded. there are better places in muir. solarium (afternoon shade) and johnny/tectonics wall are some of my favorites.
The Gallery is always nice too.

4) Military is afternoon shade, Left Flank is mostly sunny, Phantasia is nice and cool - bring bug spray, Roadside - 10 wall is full sun but some of the other stuff is shady, Drive-by is afternoon shade.

5) The suspension bridge has a good watering hole if you want to swim. stop in at miguels and get a hiking map - the suspension bridge will be listed on there.

6) you can't go wrong renting a cabin from red river outdoors. i've rented from them several times. it was great when i had friends coming to the red who were not from around here. they're nice people, cabins are wonderful and clean w/great showers (miguel's is putting in new ones but i don't think they'll be done by the time you arrive) plus renting from red river outdoors gives you access to climbing at Torrent and that's some 5-star climbing. that would be another place to consider climbing. it's shady there with lots of great stuff.

6e) you need to spend at least one evening having pizza at miguels.

7) fun 11 a/b where you're going: whipstocking (drive by) fuzzy undercling (military) air ride equipped (solarium if you end up there) aquaduct pocket (left flank). ask someone else about 11d/12a since i don't climb that hard

bring bug spray.

have fun.

Whoa. I'm only answering #7 because its the only one I read...

11a/b. King Me, Fuzzy Undercling, or Whipstocking.
11d/12a. Return of Chris Snyder, The Infidel, or Twinkie.

I suggest throwing the plan out the window, coming down and having some fun. itineraries suck.

I would second Josi on The Gallery as a crag to add. You could visit both Drive-by and The Gallery in one day if you stuck only to the high star routes. Likewise you could do Military and Left Flank in one day. Two very high quality, must do, crags you should consider are Funk Rock City and Eastern Sky Bridge (512OW already mentioned the classic "King Me"). The FRC / ESB area also meet your interest in having a swimming hole. There is a nice one in Swift Creek by the FRC parking.

every first timer has to visit miguels. it is an experience you have to partake in to EVER say you are a climber. That being said, we spend time there but camp at Koomer and Natural Bridge primitive sites ( i should disclose that I am not part of the "under 30" set). I do like to sleep at the end of my day and the party does go on and on. showers are also clean at these other locations. miguels is rowdy and sooooo fun; people are really great. His place is certainly kind to those of us with more gear than cash. Beta is abundant, shade is mostly non-existent in the big open grassy field but there are chickens and goats roaming free to keep you company!

be sure to eat there. Maybe we'll run into you.

Agreed w/ cptn static and 5120W...eastern sky bridge is kick ass place for stellar 11's as well as funk rock. Another Doug Reed at Millitary gets overlooked, but is a stellar route, the entire PMPR is killer. You can start out a the Gallery, head to Purgatory, then finish up on Tea Pot before the sun goes down.

If the sun hasn't set yet and on your way out of the PMPR, hike up to the load...it is worth just checking out.

oh - the Motherlode would be a good "rest day" activity - just to watch and hang out. it's a neat place for sure.

Josephine,
never been down in mid May. so, how are the bugs this week??