Metolius PAS (Personal Anchor System)

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Eric
Posts: 418
Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2003 10:04 pm

Metolius PAS (Personal Anchor System)

Post by Eric »

Has anyone seen/used this thing? Any comments?

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/specialty_slings.htm
"But what is happiness except the simple harmony between a man and the life he leads?" – Lord Byron
Guest

Post by Guest »

I prefer a cordalette. It's stronger (2 strands per anchor) and is more versatile (i.e. self rescue). Although for cragging, this would be fine (but overkill).

This topic has been beat to death on rec.climbing, by the way - if you are interested in the physics analysis, google it up.
Eric
Posts: 418
Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2003 10:04 pm

Post by Eric »

it just appears as though you would never get the equalization in perhaps the exact spot you want since you are dealing with slings that have been sewn together. I just wandered if anyone has actually used the PAS in the field.
"But what is happiness except the simple harmony between a man and the life he leads?" – Lord Byron
TradMike
Posts: 1173
Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Post by TradMike »

I don't use the PAS but I find the Equalizer is the fastest thing you can employ when setting up an equalized multiple points trad anchor at belays. The Equalizer is less bulky, faster and easier to handle than a cordalette. Then simply clip into the main belay point with a locker and a clove hitch from the rope to your harness with desired slack. Just a thought (works very well for me).
Guest

Post by Guest »

oh sorry, I thought you were talking about the equalizer. I've never seen the POS, I mean PAS. I don't think that's designed for an equalized anchor, but is instead intended to be used for clipping yourself in to the anchors. I just use daisies.

While the equalizer sure is light and less bulky, it doesn't have any self-rescue utility. I have tried it and I dont' think it's any easier to set up than a cordalette.
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ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

To me it looks like a cordalette is cheaper and more versatile. The metolius adjustable daisy and aiders are pretty cool ,but I rarely have need to use them.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
goodguy
Posts: 454
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2002 5:13 am

Post by goodguy »

I have used one. It works really well, it just takes some getting used to, just like anything new on your rack. I like it.
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.
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