RRC Archives

Hi everyone:
In 17 years never had a climbing injury where I was the climber...usually I get injured belaying. Oh well...I broke my medial malleolus...that is the inside ankle bone. No, there were no ambulances picking me up as a matter of fact I was giving betta to a friend while waiting till my dear husband to drive up driveby to pick me up and drive me to Dayton. Did it hurt? Yes, it did but not as much as I would have expected. How did I do it...the belayer jumped early to give me a safe catch pulling me with great force into the rock...ending up with as much slack as I had above bellow the last bolt. Yes, it was very overhanging route, it is possible to break an ankle in an overhanging route So two days later I had surgery to put two screws in and attach it back to the tibia. That was two weeks ago since surgery...one more week and I will see the doctor again, it is in an aircast with but I can't walk on it yet. The doctor expects full recovery so I am hoping to see you all soon at the crag. Right now I am a one legged board and weight training (training weight that aircast) and just wanted you all to give me some advice if you ever had a similar situation or some training advice

get a new belayer?

speedy recovery, queen of the high end sends...

Heal up fast.

i would advise you to save your medication and sell it to dirtbags at the red.

My husband was not belaying me since he had shoulder surgery...but I hear what you say about making sure the belayer is experienced, it is more important when you are light.

I know, why do they give you so many vicodins...I could open shop

you will have all the best left/right foot beta out there.

She already has the best beta of any climber I ever met.
I hope you heal up 100% tutugirl. It's not much fun limping around. Going down stairs is the worst.

Are you kidding? I am the queen of ankle rehab after shattering both ankles and having 6 ankle surgeries over the years:

When I broke both of my ankles, I focused on core work and did pull ups and "girl" push ups since I couldn't use my feet. Before I could walk on my feet, I swam in the pool 1.2 miles 4 days a week when I wasn't weight training. Also, if your doc says it is ok, you can use weight machines for your legs even before you can walk on the ankle. Quads and Hamstrings.

With my most recent ankle surgery, I climbed on top rope with the air cast on. Helps you stay strong when you can only use one leg. Then, climb in the cast bearing weight on foot holds once your doc says it is ok. Right now, I can't walk much, but I can climb fine on the ankle, so I wear the cast at camp and for hiking to the crag and belaying, but take it off to climb.

Last thing is to use the bike for exercise when the doc says ok. At first, I biked in the air cast, then transitioned to a running shoe. Good luck!!!!

i'm telling you, get all your pain med refills... it's true, there is money to be made in narcotic trafficking. that shit is a hot commodity, particularly if you crush it and snort it

I think making cakes is a safer way to make a buck. the food in jail isn't so good and the company is worse.