RRC Archives

When I first started climbing, only a mere year and a half ago I knew I wasn't getting involved in the safest sport, but at the same time I never really felt in danger. I was taught by extremely talented and safe climbers. It was over a year until I directly had friends hurt in a climbing accident. All of the sudden there seems to be surge in accidents. Is it just me? I had a friend deck from chains this past saturday, and I just read about 2 climbers that recently died in Oregon. The thing that is worrying me, is that these accidents aren't occurring with gumby climbers. These have all been experienced climbers, who have made mistakes. Maybe there is just something in the water, but please, whoever reads this whether you are new to climbing or a veteran, don't get cocky. I know it probably isn't even an issue of being cocky, we have all taken shortcuts. Just please, we all need to look out for each other, be smart and be safe.

same with any sport that has inherent risk. skateboarding, roller blading, atvs , sking and climbing. all of these ride roller coasters of popularity, with more #'s bring more accidents.

with climbing you used to be under someones wing for a little while and learn the skills and gather the gear. it was expensive and by the time you had your own rack you were golden.

now anyone with enough friends pitching in to buy a rope and a couple harness's and atc's can go out and climb. most the time they at least read about it and are fine as long as normal things are taking place.

you throw in a variable that may not be in the books or do not understand the concepts behind the rules you can get into trouble fast. gravity is not picky on who it takes and its not slow.

this is not true all the time. the last year has saw experienced climbers getting hurt. that shows that no matter who you are, how long you have been cranking or how hard you can pull it can happen to you.

i have been hurt while climbing. ledge broke while trying new choss but if i would have had more gear before that section i would not have took near the fall.

bottom line is. most accidents in this area can be prevented if you double check everything, everytime and understand the reasons behind the rules we follow.

Great response RRO. Double check every thing, every time.

When you climb for a long time, its easy to get into a comfortable routine and to stop being vigilant for the bad things that are gonna happen when you do 1 little thing different, or have a forgetful moment. I think that's what gets the experienced climbers killed.

It's also very helpful to share the how the accidents happen. Boonda, how did your friend deck from the chains?

I am not sure about this accident to which you refer. However, a decking story I hear often involves lax belaying with the grigri. Thinner treated ropes will not safely allow hanging the climber without minding the brake end. They will take their weight off momentarily and reweight the rope and the rope may slide catastrophically. We are going to see more of these accidents. Mind the break at all times in all belay devices with all ropes.
If you release the hand to manage the device and the situation, keep a visual on the climber and keep the hand at a point that allows you to check the rope--ie, you are only an instant away from the break end at any point.
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... 631#178631

red tagged route maybe that wasn't fully brushed?

there are a lot of people that think they're experienced, but really aren't.

Experience should tell the experienced that we are all just a breath away from disaster.

I agree that it has to do with just having more people in the pool of climbing, therefore for accidents. But I think most of it has to do with inexperience and ignorance. And I also agree that major accidents are going to become more common.