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7 months later, I've found more information. This has gotten better, but never went away completely. See last post for an update.


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So last week at the gym I was reaching high for a two finger (middle and ring) pocket, and experienced a tweaky pain in my palm (about an .5-1 inches below from where the ring finger joins the hand).

I climbed fine on Saturday until a two finger gaston that caused more pain in that area. It's definitely worse now. It doesn't hurt on 4 finger jugs, open or closed crimps, etc, but only when the pinky finger is not on the hold, like pockets.

In addition, if I lightly push on the tip of the ring finger, I can feel something (tendon? muscle?) move very slightly in my palm, about .5-1 inches below the base of the finger.

Has anyone had something like this before? I am pretty bummed about it, but am hoping it goes away quickly.

Sounds like a tendon. Don't stop using it... more blood to it will make it heal faster. Just be careful.

Try some MSM.

i did something pulling on a pocket on aqueduct pocket about 2 1/2 months ago. it tweaked something and it hurt deep in my palm for a long time - maybe 2 months until it healed completely. during that time my grip strength was considerably lower in my left hand. it hurt to squeeze the water out of my hair after i washed it or to hold a brush in that hand. now it's doing just fine.

stretch it, massage it, and warm up a ton. Anytime you feel it start to tweak, get the weight off it quickly, even if it means falling.

Those kinds of injuries vary quite a bit in severity. I've had pain very similar that healed in about 10 days, and another instance where it hurt for nearly a year. The key is to not re-injure it, and that means warming up(especially for anything fingery). Stick to jugs for a few days, then ease back into the other stuff.

agreed. warm up for a long time, very gradually. it takes a while for blood to get moving throughout the pipes.

and don't lie to yourself when it comes to taking it easy during a workout--you will know when you're starting to push it.

I successfully climbed through 3 A2 pulley injuries (none of them tears, and all are healed now), so I'm used to taking it easy and not doing moves that cause pain. Thanks for the advice.

This is why hangboards were invented... the stronger your hands, the less likely it will be for you to injure them while pulling on small tweaky holds.

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