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Lord of the Flies version 2.0?

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 6:38 pm
by SikMonkey
Has anyone tried going straight up the arete through the pockets and staying left of the bolts on this climb as opposed to going through the swiss cheese looking stuff on the right? It looks kind of cool and might go 9+/10a-ish (?). I was lowering off this the other day and noticed chalk in the pockets all the way up and I started wondering if anyone else has done it this way. (needless to say I did not do it due to impending darkness).

Mj

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 9:16 pm
by rhino
The Monkey has spoken?

How do you get the monkey to speak?

I hear you can spank them to get them to play dead, but I have never heard of someone getting one to speak.

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 9:55 pm
by ynot
Version 3 is the chimney around the corner. It's good and much easier,but unleadable.I tried the arete a long time ago but didnt get more than 1/2 way up.

Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 10:33 pm
by gulliver
The arete is cool most of the way , I think we all ended up cheating off of it near the top , which kinda seemed contrived. The best route there (IMO) is left of the bolts before the arete. I just played with it on TR shortly but I could see a route and it was definitely more interesting than the bolted route. Been a long time since I was there but I always meant to work it a bit more

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:49 am
by Bruisebrother
The arete was done years ago when the route was first bolted!

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 2:53 am
by Steve
Yep, try it the next time you happen on the route its sorta fun.

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 3:48 am
by ynot
The arete next to arachnid is even better,and longer.I thought it was underated at 10.

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 11:30 am
by SikMonkey
Thanks for the info guys. I was just wondering how many actually had.

Ryan, you have been hanging around John WAY too long. You are starting to sound like him. Also, what's all this talk about beating your monkey? I thought you had a girlfriend?

Mj

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 3:06 pm
by JR
I've led the arete of Lord of the Flies. It is still a 9 but waaay more fun. It actually has moves. I always wondered if that was the original line and people just started traversing because it was easier to get off the ground.

Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 3:19 pm
by DKing
I am very confused much like rhino.......the monkey can really speak??? was the monkey who told you never to take "no" from the rock and that you could climb for fun later????