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Best 5.12A?
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 10:24 am
by Izzy
As an aspiring 5.12 climber I'm trying to figure out what the best and or easiest 5.12A's in the red are. I know that "Wild, yet tasty", "Ro Shampo" and "Hippocrite" are popular first 5.12's but I was looking for a little more insight to some lesser traveled lines. Of course the grade of any 5.12 could be debated all day but for a legitimate, high quality 5.12, what's the best route?
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 10:54 am
by jordancolburn
Not that i've climbed it yet, but expresso over at the bowling alley in muir is supposed to be pretty easy to work out. Short(40 ft), the hard boulder problem is below the first bolt, so just bring a stick clip, the first bolt is pretty high.
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 11:10 am
by pawilkes
easy 12a's: Crack the whip, Flying Monkeys, Wild Yet Tasty, Hardcore Jollies, Immaculate Deception
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 11:51 am
by jordancolburn
also, i think there's a top ten list of easy .12 routes in the guidebook.
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 11:57 am
by Andrew
Easiest 12a's include:
Immaculate deception
Crack the Whip
Avalanche Run
Berliers Bane
Best 12a:
Too Many Puppies
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 12:24 pm
by the lurkist
Easiest- means 11b/c. Pick a real 12a-
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 12:28 pm
by der uber
Easier 12a's:
Kick Me in the Jimmies
Manifest Destiny
Chainsaw Massacre
Cool lower 12s:
Beta-vul Pipeline
Hippocrite
Sex Farm
Check Your Grip
Nicorette
Go Easy Billy Clyde!
Don't miss these great upper 11's while your searching for that 12:
Spirit Fingers
Random Precision
Recoil
All Things Considered
Return of Chris Snyder
Velvet
Sick Puppies
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 12:51 pm
by Dman
what about SCAR TISSUE right beside hippocrite not that bad
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 12:55 pm
by Josephine
der uber wrote:Easier 12a's:
Kick Me in the Jimmies
you might not want to lead this one until you're SURE you can clip each bolt. there's potential for a really nasty fall at the 4th. at least - that's what i've seen.
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:20 pm
by krampus
My favorite 12a's in descending order
Wildfire
too many puppies
break the scene
tacit
check your grip