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Stop hiding, start chipping?
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 5:41 pm
by kneebar
Why not? It seems to be the natural progression (or regression) of climbing.
We make an impact already with cleaning routes, leaving slings around trees (or girdling the tree), trundling, bolting, project draws, building trails, pissing, pooping, and generally scaring the shit out of the wildlife. I'm sure there is more but you get the idea.
So what is the big deal, why not utilize the overhanging blank walls and "spread out" the impact on other areas?
Would you support full on manufatured routes bottom to top? And do you think it will happen in the Red someday no matter whether you oppose it or not?
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 5:52 pm
by Crankmas
the nature of the stone doesn't support the manufacturing of holds in the Red or the lowest common mofo would have continued doing years ago- move along people nothing here to see
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:55 pm
by 512OW
Crankmas is correct, the stone in the Red wouldn't support it. Areas all over the west are in large part manufactured. It wasn't long ago that chipping wasn't such a bad thing.
Once we run out of routes to climb, I'll support chipping blank faces.
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:57 pm
by 512OW
Frankly though, I'd rather see Ray Jardines vision come to life... holds that can be glued up, using some futuristic epoxy that is easily removed and leaves no residue or damage.
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:33 pm
by pigsteak
glueing and chipping. I'm in.
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:15 pm
by kneebar
So the rock won't support a drilled pocket but will support a drilled sport clip?
Piggy, time for some experimentation
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:26 pm
by ReachHigh
most of the red is so pocketed that I support the filling in of pockets.
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:33 pm
by pigsteak
ReachHigh wrote:most of the red is so pocketed that I support the filling in of pockets.
exactly. we can take some overbolted 5.12 at the lode, and make it a world class 5.13 merely by filling in some pockets.
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 10:54 pm
by sharon9999
I don't see that happening at the red,but with climbing becoming more and more popular I do think we'll start to see manufactured climbs at closed stone quarries. Could be out door "gyms".
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:00 pm
by woodchuck008
Fuk, let's just get the dam 4 lane highway into PMRP and Muir, escalators out of the steepest ravines and an aerial tram for tourists. Give everyone a bolt gun as they enter the Red and screw the idea of recycling cans when they look so cool all along the trails.