Page 1 of 2
Looking for climb parnter in Versailles, KY
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 6:50 pm
by kman154
I am in Versailles, Ky and my pal and I are looking for another partner in the area. we are looking for some one a little more advanced than ourselves to kind of push us alittle harder and to have around so that we do not lose gear when we attempt to climb are routes.
we are climbing 5.9+ to lower 5.10's
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 7:25 pm
by sendit
Front page quality!
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:10 pm
by Andrew
stick clip bro. Learn it.
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:13 pm
by kman154
thats what we do now.
you are suggesting stick clip that entire route.
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:15 pm
by bcombs
Andrew wrote:stick clip bro. Learn it.
He said "gear", which I took to mean trad.... Stick placing trad is the next level.
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:16 pm
by Saxman
I hate are routes.
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:17 pm
by bcombs
kman154 wrote:thats what we do now.
you are suggesting stick clip that entire route.
That's how we rolll...
Check it:
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1464 = Stick clip FA
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=2197 = Stick clip FA
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:19 pm
by kman154
yes, are routes, are somewhat difficult, but harder sport routes are the ones i do not want to loose gear on.
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:22 pm
by Josephine
kman154 wrote:thats what we do now.
you are suggesting stick clip that entire route.
shoot, i've done that a bunch. get a long pole so that you can stick clip every other bolt. the crux is usually clipping the chains bec they can swing - but with a little patience you'll get the hang of it. works great. no gear lost AND you get to avoid the chance falling.
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:37 pm
by bcombs
Is stick clipping up a route something we should be promoting? It's one thing to get in over your head and have to stick clip to finish. I think that is what Josephine is referring to.
I don't think we want people stick clipping up stuff that is over their head because they presume it's somehow safer than leading. The majority of the time your going in direct to pass a loop down to the belayer (who is now off belay) and dragging the stick back up the rock. That's not safe.
I can see it now... a sharp increase in people getting stabbed in the head when gumby #32658 drops the stick.