Training Power

Post by **bcombs** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 6:05 pm

So, I bought a Treadwall. It's the best money I've spent on climbing training by far. However, the surface area and the nature of the device doesn't lend itself to training any kind of power / contact strength. I'm training 4 days a week and so I'd like 1-2 days to be more focused on power while the other 2 days are power endurance / endurance on the Treadwall.

Some of you have seen my 2x4 setup. It's basically a ladder of 1 pad crimps (made from 2x4 boards) that go up and down a 55 degree wall in my garage. Some of the things I've been doing on that to train power are:

- Skips: Skip every other rung to make the move from crimp to crimp really long (thanks Andrew).

- Cut Feet: Match hands, cut your feet off the wall, swing back in, move up one rung and match again. Repeat. (thanks Andrew)

- Crossovers: Start on the rightmost side of the 2x4 and match. Moving up to the next 2x4 with the right hand to the leftmost side of the next rung. These work well for stability.

- Power Ladder: See Mike Doyles description in his training guide.

So, I do a rep of each of those and it takes about 20 minutes. I try to train for 1 - 1.5 hours so the question is what to do with the time left? Before the Treadwall I would just boulder and try to get any power endurance I could from the limited space. Mostly just traversing. Now I have endurance training out the yin yang (Treadwall) and need to focus on power.

I read in Mike Doyle's book about climbing one handed and focusing on deadpointing. That could work, kind of traverse back and forth bumping the same hand and then switching and coming back. Anyone have any other training tips for building power / contact strength? I'm considering building a campus board, but I'm running out of room in my garage.

Honestly though, check back with me in a year. I have zero excuse for not climbing 12+ within a year. I mean zero. I have all the tools at my disposal and the will the train. If I fail it's because I suck.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 6:18 pm

Boulder. I gained tons of power just by bouldering with no specific traiing regime. But then at the time I was climbing 7+ days a week until my arms felt like they were going to fall off.

I have no power now, except maybe eating power...

Post by **Andrew** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 6:42 pm

Climb Time

Post by **Andrew** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 6:43 pm

If you want to be good at climbing at the red, you probably don't need much power.

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 6:50 pm

Where did you get the treadwall?

Post by **bcombs** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 6:53 pm

SCIN wrote:Where did you get the treadwall?

Ebay... I'll post a pic of my setup to help with some ideas. Clearly I'm not going to get any from Andrew. Just because he can climb only 10 feet high during the week and send at the Red in the weekends doesn't mean the rest of us can.

Post by **Andrew** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:11 pm

I am just going to finally admit it. I suck.

I was actually embarrased with myself when I was climbing Frugal Chariot. Even though I sent, as I was climbing I was thinking about my fitness, not even about the climb. I was thinking about how I was getting pumped on big holds, after ten feet of climbing. Flashing a 12a is pretty easy, and not much of an accomplishment.

I really need to get on a training schedule that helps me climb better at the Red, which is what I love. My problems is this:
I don't have a consistent training schedule or outside climbing schedule. This is because my job(meetings, coaching, other random events), and my family.

I can't ever consistently climb at the red to build endurance because of obligations, and or to project things.

How can I train properly despite my crazy schedule?

Post by **bcombs** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:13 pm

Here are some pics of the setup:

I get the "just boulder" response. But what I'm really trying to do is maximize time and isolate the desired workout. I could just boulder for and hour and inevitably power would be part of the work. I'm trying to get the maximum results in minimum time. I work until 8:00 PM so I only have a couple hours.

So if anyone has any ideas of things to try I'm all ears. I'll experiment a bit and report back. I like the Mike Doyle, one arm deadpoint thing. So stuff like that is of interest.

Post by **Wes** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:15 pm

Move your campus board setup to something more like 10 degree, and use smaller rungs. Spend 15 minutes warming up, then 15 minutes on the board, followed by five minutes of cool down.

Post by **bcombs** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:18 pm

That's an idea... I was thinking of building a campus board, I just have to figure out where to put it. Also, for clarity, the 2x4's aren't campused, I use feet. It's hard to figure out from the pic, but the edge used while climbing it is just a little under 1 pad, so it's pretty small.