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Anyone know about Dawson Bluffs?
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 7:37 pm
by camhead
So, I just saw some info on this place on rockclimbing.com's database, but would like to know more from anyone who has actually climbed at this place in Western KY.
Is it easy to find? How are the cracks? What is the deal with this alleged 13a Thermonuclear route that is unrepeated?
And finally, how stupid would it be for me to take a weekend from Columbus and drive past the RRG to go to this place?
thanks,
Paul
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:07 pm
by jordancolburn
It's on my way home from louisville, so I usually stop by if the weather is right. It's actually a lot better than I thought it would be. Haven't ever had the time to go too far back, so I don't know how much rock there really is.
I mainly go by myself so it's bouldering for me. Just a lot of different short problems. I've done a few of the sport routes on solo toprope, but just the ones I could easily climb to the top ledges by my self to set it up. There looks like a lot of fun trad too.
I don't know anything about the history or route names or anything, just go and climb what looks fun. Might be worth a weekend trip, not sure where you would stay, the parking lot is a crappy crappy gravel pull of with maybe spots for five cars, i missed it the first time.
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:09 pm
by Ascentionist
Is it near Dawson Creek?
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:00 pm
by 512OW
Its got one, maybe two worthy routes. Thurmonuclear is only 12d, and in my opinion, not worth the drive to find out that its seeping. It IS a stellar route, so if you have the free time and money... go do it. As far as I know, it hasn't been repeated placing gear. I did it with one piece preplaced... only because I was too lazy to clean it (it was in the middle of the roof and required back aiding to get to it.).
DEFINITELY not worth driving past the Red for....
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:33 pm
by Andrew
Well, that wasn't subtle.
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:42 pm
by 512OW
I don't do subtle.
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 11:16 pm
by Andrew
You also don't do my route very well.
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 11:31 pm
by 512OW
If by "very well", you mean that I don't climb overgraded choss piles, you are correct.
Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:23 am
by camhead
512OW wrote:Its got one, maybe two worthy routes. Thurmonuclear is only 12d, and in my opinion, not worth the drive to find out that its seeping. It IS a stellar route, so if you have the free time and money... go do it. As far as I know, it hasn't been repeated placing gear. I did it with one piece preplaced... only because I was too lazy to clean it (it was in the middle of the roof and required back aiding to get to it.).
DEFINITELY not worth driving past the Red for....
yeah, cleaning roofs is a pain.
So, what size of crack is it, how big is the roof, etc.?
it sounds like I should definitely check it out if I'm ever driving by that area.
Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:46 am
by 512OW
Mostly wide hands, or tight fists. Short OW section. Turns flaring and thinner over the lip.
The roof is about 30 feet or so....