Double Helix: Another Day, Another Epic

Post by **Jack** » Wed May 21, 2003 2:31 am

Are there actually any anchors on this route?

Post by **Danny** » Wed May 21, 2003 4:50 am

When I did it there was a sketchy nut or tricam up in the horizontal but I decided to do the hairy traverse all the way over to Armed. Yea, it's an epic waiting to happen.

Post by **Jack** » Wed May 21, 2003 6:20 am

Yeah, zemkat put a tri-cam and a couple of TCUs (we like to sew it up) in the horizontal for her first anchor, but after that she only traversed 10-15 feet. I think Armed was another 10 or 20 feet and the pro and rope drag were not so good for us.

I'll update the online guide to mention the lack of easy anchors unless someone objects. I think its pretty hard to top out, and the traverse is almost as long as the climb.

Post by **Jack** » Wed May 21, 2003 6:43 am

Oh, I went back and read Johnny's guide. Definitely no fixed gear up there today. There was a nut down low that someone seems to have bailed on, but it wasn't particularly solid.

Am I right in understanding that "fixed gear" is hard to remove (a nut tool, or at least some hard jerks) and is at the top (not the middle) of a climb?

I guess we can take our first piece of booty out of its frame on the wall and put it back if that's actually supposed to be part of the route.

If anyone cares, there is a pretty fun walk off (maybe 3rd class, stuff like kids climb when their dad's are off fishing) of X-Files. It can also be a walk-on if you are skinny or can do a goofy 5.4ish boulder problem (too hard for muddy hiking boots, but just barely). From the gully in the walk-off of Wonderful Life, bear left, either climb up a ridgey slab with a huge tree, or go left around the corner to a little squeeze chimney / horn thing. Climb up the ledgey slab and walk right along the trail about 10 feet to the rap-tree of X-Files.

Post by **Danny** » Wed May 21, 2003 2:27 pm

I think you got valid booty. Someone must have yanked the old manky stuff. I'm don't think "fixed" actually refers to "hard to remove". I think it just means left there to be used for rapping, belaying etc. But I might be mistaken.

Post by **Steve** » Wed May 21, 2003 3:35 pm

Agreed on that definition Danny.
Never done that route before, but from what I can gather it is short an the traverse is long. That nut was up there back in March, we figured it was left as a bail piece. There are all sorts of funky scrambles and whatnot up there at Pistol Ridge. Sounds like you had fun wandering all over that crag Jack! Next on your epic list should be Razorback up at Pebble!

Post by **Jack** » Wed May 21, 2003 8:25 pm

Crap, Razorback was on the list. We were gonna go do Razorback and/or Beachcomber at Pebble to warm up for Environmental Impact.

Oh well tomorrow at least is an adventure-less day. Laps on Father and Son, and Vision, perhaps an onsight of Casual Viewing.

I think Saturday is tentatively scheduled as the Pebble Beach landing, in case anyone wants to watch the epic unfold.

Thanks for the info on "fixed gear". I'll make sure not to take anything from the top, even if its not permanently attached. Actually, now that the novelty of having booty has worn off, I doubt anything less than a cam will even tempt me.

Post by **t bone** » Thu May 22, 2003 1:29 am

Jack Sparky goes Crack Climbing at funk rock is good 5.6 if you have not done it. there are no anchors. you have set typical old school rrg belay.

Post by **ynot** » Thu May 22, 2003 1:55 am

Beachcomber is hardly worth it.If you're bent on doing it take a replacement rap sling. Arrowhead is much better.Sparky goes crack climbing is fun fists.

Post by **Steve** » Thu May 22, 2003 7:22 pm

Oh Jack Razorback is a great warmup for Environmental, a real must do. It'll make ya appreciate the other routes you do thereafter! Don't foreget Bongo at WOD as a good intro into RRG trad. Watch out for the wasp in the bongo though.