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Ten Sleep

Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 8:52 pm
by robert birchell
Anyone climb at Ten Sleep?? I like easy to mid 11's at the Red and was wondering if Ten sleep had any overhanging walls with good pockets.
The guide makes "The Great White Buffalo" sound Red like.

Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:48 pm
by Lateralus
was just there, very few if any overhanging routes in the range you are talking about... not much really overhanging rock at all especially compared to the red. If you want steep rock you should go to Lander and hit Iris and/or Sinks. I'd classify Tensleep as vert techy climbing, but very high quality in that regard, with little to no scene whatsoever, weekdays you'll have the crag mostly to yourself. The French Cattle Ranch has some of the most beautiful rock I've seen, but you got to be solid pulling and stepping on small holds. The Great White Behemoth is about the only climb I saw there that even remotely resembled a steep red climb. I'll definitely go back one of these days but I will buff up my foot/toe strength beforehand, the low angle rocks the legs.

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 1:27 am
by dmw
the great white buffalo reminds me of the 11's at Left Flank. It is pockety and fun, but shorter than most climbs there..... definitely go there. it is cool, but as Lateralus said, most of it is vertical and techy. A really cool route that is Red- like and hard 11 (for the Red this would definitely be a12) is at the Oblivion Roof, and is called Killer Karma. It is a must do. Basically do any of Charlie Kardaleff's routes. They are all very good moderates. Mike Snyder has some good routes around the Spirit Wirld/Gaudi Park area, Espanta Bruja, Architects on Acid... also Positive ID and Mistaken Identity (something like that) are both rad. Of course also you should go and do Beer bong and Colors of Heaven (3 pitch route 1oc, 9, 10d I think) the first pitch is called schools out. Also at the Frat Boys Wall there are some good but sharp routes.... Frat Boys with Razorblades, one with Grasshopper in the name, Theta Dorka Toolshed, etc. ALSO go back to the Back Forty, where you'll find Hell Yes I want Cheezy Poofs and some other stellar 11's..... make sure you get the new guide book if you can bc there are a bunch of new routes..... don't go before 1 in the afternoon or you will fry in the sun, and look out for a dickface in a white gas flatbed truck with a shit-ton of dogs. He don't like foreigners going into his territory ( in the lower canyon only this is a problem - ESPECIALLY if you are a Greener. This guy is a douche, but the local authority knows all about him and his cute bolt chopping, climber shoving antics)
Don't let that keep you from TenSleep. It is amazing.

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 4:22 am
by young'n climber
mondo beyondo

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:42 am
by Lander
Chemist and her partner just got back from there. It was like their third trip there.

They swear it's the best sport climbing area in the states other than the Red (of course).

Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 1:36 pm
by dmw
shhh