New River Gorge info?

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
Jay
Posts: 498
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 1:17 pm

New River Gorge info?

Post by Jay »

It looks like I'm headed down to the New for a weekend jaunt this weekend, but I haven't been there before, and I could use some info:

Can someone recommend a few crags on the moderate end of the scale with dog-friendly access that won't be completely overrun, a nice, quiet-ish campground that allows pooches, and the best place in town for a pizza and pitcher of beer?

(The pooch definitely has to come along, as I don't have any options for a doggie-sitter...)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance,
Jay
"Always carry a large flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite and furthermore always carry a small snake." -W.C. Fields
gripster
Posts: 469
Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:43 am

Post by gripster »

Alright, If you can carry your dog down a relatively short wooden ladder, I would recommend Summersville Lake due to the wide variety of climbing grades, and a great place to take a swim in the sweltering August heat. Also, Bubba city might be a good choice because you can hike most of the way in without any ladders (at least to the Sandstonia area). You can also try beauty mountain and the super mario boulder, both easy approaches.

If your into trad (which is rad) there are some great cracks at the Bridge buttress with an easy approach, but in this humidity, they may all feel like the inside of a greasy pizza box.

I would stay away from the Endless wall area (long downclimbs or rappels required).

There are two campgrounds I know of, Rogers will allow your doggie to stay, and so will the other campground, although I can't remember the name of it? It was a little more expensive but offers more privacy and less lound and obnoxious late night activity.

For a pizza and a beer, definately check out Pies and Pints, it's the best around.
herbalist
Posts: 85
Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2003 11:17 am

Post by herbalist »

camping-chestnut creek,pizza- pies and pint the best pizza of any climbing area i've been too.coffee/breakfest the cathedral.
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Beauty Mtn, Junkyard, and the crags on the other side of the river behind rogers all have pretty straight forward approaches, but not a whole lot of sport climbing under 5.10. Junkyard you can set up tr's on most of the trad lines pretty easy. There is limited parking for beauty, so if you get there early enough to get a spot, it shouldn't be as crowded as some of the other areas.

Wouldn't stay at rogers unless you are sleeping in a van/truck/etc. Chestnut is good for camping, though not if you are going to be a bit loud.

Pies and Pints is good, and I also love the food at the sedona grill. Some pretty good mexican down the road from fayetteville.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
TankAzz
Posts: 600
Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 8:13 pm

Post by TankAzz »

not pizza, but i am a big fan of dirty ernie's too... love me some bbq!
Courtesy of Andrew: "I don't think you will damage your escort unless she trips because she is so strung out on blow. Most people just take them to the rest area."
ditzywonder
Posts: 244
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:31 pm

Post by ditzywonder »

he also lied....he found a dog sitter :) looks like we are hitting up bubba city on saturday, any suggestions for totally awesome routes that we shouldnt miss?
black diamonds are a girls best friend
Crankmas
Posts: 3961
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 5:24 pm

Post by Crankmas »

everything at bubba titty is good
User avatar
Josephine
Posts: 2216
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:38 pm

Post by Josephine »

geshia girl and the 5.8+ to the right of it. (60 meter rope required) there's a really fun 5.6 stemming route to the right. it's one of my all time favs even if it is a beginner route.

summersville lake has some fun stuff too but i don't know the name of the routes. lotsa fun to climb then swim for sure! :-)

if you can make it an extended weekend Class VI offers fun rafting and quality food.
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun
ditzywonder
Posts: 244
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:31 pm

Post by ditzywonder »

thanks josie :) maybe i can convince the boys to let me play on some fun stuff, haha...... I am sure if i tell them we are going to the lake on day #2 they will let me have my fun :)
black diamonds are a girls best friend
Shamis
Posts: 1343
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:11 pm

Post by Shamis »

I can't remember the name of it, but the one that you have to climb down several large ladders to get to the base of is awesome.

Beauty mountain is also awesome.

Summersville lake is good, and the swimming is good. Let me know if you see anybody deep water solo'ing, I'm curious about how strictly they are enforcing the no cliff jumping thing up there.
Post Reply