Page 1 of 5

Recommendations for 5.11a-b

Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:03 pm
by petey
Hello,

I mostly lurk normally but wanted to ask a question. I'm solid on 10.d and looking to get into 11a-b. Can anyone recommend good climbs at this level (anything but slab). I've gotten on toker, fuzzy and air ride equipped.

thanks much and have glorious days.

Pete

Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:13 pm
by TradMike
BBBB is the best 11 in the gorge. It's listed as 5.11c though.

Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:17 pm
by anticlmber
psyberpunk - solid and super fun
twisted
trad sucker
eye of the needle
count floyd show
up yonder - pump, pump, pump
yellow brick road
ruby slippers, lollipop kids, and no place like home
amarillo sunset
skunk love
special boy/believer
any of the 11s at torrent

just a few of the gooder ones out there

Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:18 pm
by Andrew
Bathtub Mary

Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:21 pm
by anticlmber
Andrew wrote:Bathtub Mary
sucks


also check out
another doug reed route
edge a sketch
momma cindy
touch of grey - soft but good
areterection
scumbugalizer ??

Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:31 pm
by petey
Thanks a lot yall-are any of these at crags that are off the path a bit? I'll be down this weekend

oh and what is bbbb- are you talkinga bout beene bros best?

Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:46 pm
by rjackson
My favorites for the grades...

Whipstocking at Drive By, 11a
Super Dario at Eastern Sky Bridge, 11a
Bandolier at Torrent (if you go to the meeting Saturday, or stay in one of the cabins), 11a
Green Horn at Solar Collector, 11a

Count Floyd Show at Phantasia, 11b
Up Yonder (the first set of chains) at Roadside, 11b

Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:48 pm
by pkananen
petey wrote:Thanks a lot yall-are any of these at crags that are off the path a bit?
Search: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide

Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 3:00 pm
by Andrew
Definitely Whipstocking.

Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 3:21 pm
by Lander
Whipstocking is a great one to break into the 11 grade. No hard moves. It's pumpy but there are like three no hand rests if you don't have the fitness to climb it straight through.

Fuzzy Undercling is another great one. Bouldery start then it's over after you clip the second. Just make big moves the rest of the way.
petey wrote:oh and what is bbbb- are you talkinga bout beene bros best?
BBBB. Bozos Bogus Booty Biner. A Military Wall classic but probably not the first 11 to try. It's about 11c.