attentive belayers

[krampus]

Just curious because I have been in several situations where I was above the bolt an knew that I was going to fall. I yell take so that my belayer would get rid of all the slack thereby giving me a hard catch. My belayer said no which freaked me out and kinda made me mad, I took the fall and verbalized my feelings. I am pretty sure my belayer did in fact take the slack and I fell so far due to our weight differences however I was still pissed. But looking back, I think I may have been in the wrong as a soft catch is usually safer, and even though I asked for the hard catch and prepared myself to swing into the hard into the wall, I should have maned up and prepared to haul up the rope, instead of slamming into the rock. So should ones belayer make the choice to do what he/she feels is safer for the climber despite what the climber said?

[Saxman]

Yes, because some climbers completely forget physics when they are pumped. I am not helping carry you out because you wanted a hard catch and sprained or broke both ankles. You are crawling and dragging your pack. If it's an overhanging route, then it doesn't matter safety wise, but getting back on easily does mandate taking in some of the slack.

[Meadows]

You should communicate with your belayer before leaving the ground. Often people yell, "Take!" when they really mean falling. Your climber probably thought that you were doing that.

But I know what you mean. Often, I fall just one hand hold above the bolt and the next thing you know, I'm half way down the route.

[caribe]

I think the belayer serves the climber, period. A soft catch isn't everything. There are times when a hard catch is the only way to go. Finding quality help that realize this is tough.

[kirker]

I think the key word in the question is "always". The belayer should listen to the climber, but when the climber notifies the belayer take, falling, off, ect. he/she is basically saying its all you now. Regardless of how the climber wants the situation to end. And when the safety becomes the sole responsibility of the belayer you have to let them do what’s best.

[anticlmber]

if it's steep i try to make the fall short yet soft so that you can get back on(within limits) and also it may not be possible to that if there is a ledge/roof/midget or other object the climber is unaware of. you trusted me enough to leave the ground then let me do my job and you just climb. capeche??

that said i HATE when my belayer is just chatting away, even after saying "watch me" or when i look down several times and not once do i see my belayer looking up at me. that shit eats me up. talk later.

[rhunt]

Yeah I think this whole "soft catch" thing gets a little skewed and over stated. The climber should know when to say take or just fall. The belayers first and primary job is the keep the belayer from hitting the ground. Most of the time a "soft catch" is just simply leaving a little slack when belaying.

Personally, I'd rather my belayer listen to what I ask and not decide for himself or herself what is best for me.

[bcombs]

No, because too many climbers puss out when there is no reason to stop! Don't tell me take in the crux. Climb on, fall, I got you. If I don't you shouldn't be climbing with me in the first place.

But, I hate it when somebody walks up to the cliff and decides they want to badger you for beta, route locations, where other cliffs are, where the closest Mc Donalds is, etc, etc,... STFU and let me do my job. When my climber is on the ground I'll draw you a freakin map.

Sorry, I've been on the road for the last two weeks and I'm cranky.

[SCIN]

A belayer should act as a robot performing the commands which the climber dictates. If the climber gets hurt because they want a short fall then that's their own fault.

[rhunt]

I want a little Horatio robot performing belayer that sits and begs on command. One that chases away gumbies and large college groups, cleans my shoes, bushes my holds and feeds me trail mix.