RRC Archives

so thanks to someone that shall remain anonymous, but whose name ends with Meadows, i'd like to bring attention to routes that commonly get sent by skipping the crux.

first off - twinkie - two or three bolts into the steep part there is the obvious redpoint crux where you have to do a few long moves to the right with no feet. apparently you can skip this by going left on gigantic jugs.

what are some others?

-the heavily debated paradise lost
-calm like a bomb - i just noticed a bunch of chalked up holds that traverse about 15-20 feet right before the crux to what looks like some big jugs.
-mona lisa?

Always, always follow the taped route.

snot rocket. That face to the left is the crux, but some fagoteer used the easy crack to the right.

what are some others?

Stepping left onto a 10b, to avoid the *real* 5.13 climbing on wtok.

Using the big hueco on herd mentality, thus skipping the only 5.12ish climbing on the route.

Using the moonbeam jugs on sunshine should totally drop the grade to 5.8

stemming on "up yonder" ( takes the pump crux away)
using the semi-detached ramp on iniquity to get a no hands rest
going left on buff the wood up high on crimps instead of using the shallow left hand pocket
any tall person who does 50 bucks by going out left to crimps
stick clipping the second draw on american dream takes the fear crux away

If you with in 6 feet of the line bolts your on route.

the FA on Iniquity used the ramp. it is on. The grade comes from the boulder problem start, FYI. 8)

i know the concensus on up yonder is not to stem, but perhaps it should just be downgraded(?) it's not exactly far away to stem at the top....
i had a friend who was so adamant about not stemming (even after he sent), that he totally blew the anchors at the top rather than stick his foot out left. it was a little ride for him...

btw, nice cheater send, non named meadows, if it was indeed you.

Both huecos on Herd are off.