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starter wall in Gorge for newbies

Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 10:51 pm
by redsamick
My friend and I are planning a trip to the Gorge this summer and I want to put up some stuff that we both can climb. I'm up for leading 5.7, maybe 5.8-, but I've only got some stoppers and draws. So, my question: Where is a good place to get some decent, easy climbs (either Trad or Sport), i.e. 5.low - 5.7ish.

Much thanks - go cats

Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 11:28 pm
by Saxman

Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 11:33 pm
by redsamick
much thanks Saxman. I was looking around and found the Practice Wall. looks like the perfect place to start. cheers:)

Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 11:35 pm
by FujManiac
in my little bit of trad experience, I have found that a 5.7 sport and 5.7 trad are completely different grades. The trad running a bit harder. While I can comfortably lead a 5.10 on sport, getting off the ground on a 5.10 trad is a completely different ball game. Just something for you to think about.

With that said, I would just buy a book (or look online; see above ^^) It gives all the climbs with everything really easily sorted out for you. It's foolproof.

And if you still don't want to do that, go to Muir Valley....Bruisebrothers Wall. Easy, beginning climbing there with some cool tall routes.

Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 11:37 pm
by FujManiac
yeah, and Practice wall is right next to Bruisebrothers. But I would skip Practice wall - not too much there and everything is really short. But I guess it's good for practice...?

Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 11:44 pm
by redsamick
true - I was checking out BB Wall in the online guide as well - looks nice. thanks guys

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:41 pm
by toad857
there is a place called practice wall at muir valley.

actually, there is a lot of great easy stuff in muir valley.

the landowners and caretakers of that area are very nice people and especially nice to allow so many climbers in there. definitely check out bruisebrothers wall!

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 6:48 pm
by redsamick
i shall, thanks!

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 10:09 pm
by Bob&Pam
I second everyone else about Muir, and add that Fortress has some good, easy trad stuff. And be sure to try Father & Son at Lady Slipper while you are here. Have fun....

Bob

Posted: Sun May 25, 2008 11:01 pm
by ewaaser
If you go over to Father and Son, be sure to do Eureka. Long 5.6, bolted but a little bit of crack climbing also.