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Monkey in the Middle at the Zoo
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:36 am
by chemist
We were there on Saturday, and while looking up at this, were only able to see 7 bolts, with an obvious runout portion in between the 4th and what we figured was the 6th bolt (or 5th and 7th, I can't remember). Figuring that it must just be hidden, my partner ended up climbing to the 4th bolt, then climbing about another 8 feet or so. He was unable to see another bolt, and with decking potential if a hold were to break, he backed off the route. Is it really that runout, or is it missing a bolt?
On another subject, the right anchor bolt at the top of One Brick Shy is very loose (and I'm not sure of the appropriate place for posting this information).
Re: Monkey in the Middle at the Zoo
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:40 am
by Josephine
chemist wrote:
On another subject, the right anchor bolt at the top of One Brick Shy is very loose (and I'm not sure of the appropriate place for posting this information).
www.teamsuckclimbing.com & online guide.
Re: Monkey in the Middle at the Zoo
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 11:42 am
by Meadows
chemist wrote:We were there on Saturday, and while looking up at this, were only able to see 7 bolts, with an obvious runout portion in between the 4th and what we figured was the 6th bolt (or 5th and 7th, I can't remember). Figuring that it must just be hidden, my partner ended up climbing to the 4th bolt, then climbing about another 8 feet or so. He was unable to see another bolt, and with decking potential if a hold were to break, he backed off the route. Is it really that runout, or is it missing a bolt?
I've climbed this route many times (even a couple of weeks ago) and know that the bolts are all there, but I believe the 6th one is hard to see - it's just over the bulge. The one to the right of it (and just left of One Brick) requires a cam down low.
chemist wrote:
On another subject, the right anchor bolt at the top of One Brick Shy is very loose (and I'm not sure of the appropriate place for posting this information).
teamsuckclimbing.com
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:04 pm
by caribe
Marcia, you have to be talking about Geezers Go Sport, the "mixed route" in that section.
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:09 pm
by krampus
All the bolts on Monkey in the Middle are there, I just got the one legged accent two saturdays ago.
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:11 pm
by bcombs
FOLA, nice Krampus!
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:33 pm
by krampus
bcombs, I was just worried about your rapid rise in the rankings, and had to keep up.
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 1:56 pm
by bcombs
krampus wrote:bcombs, I was just worried about your rapid rise in the rankings, and had to keep up.
Haha, I'm trying man, I'm trying. It's hard when you're old and fat.
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:06 pm
by JR
O man that stings. Couldn't find the bolts on an established overhanging chalked up jug haul. That is embarrassing. Sorry Chemist.
....But wait a minute. I reread your post...
You didn't even try the route?
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:13 pm
by chemist
JR- I'm not embarrassed. Holds do break at the Red, even on established jug hauls. With deck potential after already clipping 5 bolts, I felt that my partner made the right decision, and I did not try it.