For the saftey of all........(a joke)
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:39 am
I was thinking.......all those sport routes out there are seriously dangerous places. To alleviate the safety hazard that have been created by all you well meaning route developers I suggest a few simple alterations to existing routes in several stages done over several years.
Stage "A". Problem- Redundancy, While leading a climber clips into one bolt at a time ........if that bolt blows we are DEAD!
Solution- add 2 more bolts at the first 3 clips creating a bomb-proof anchor system with a 2 chain clipping point. One
of the biners off the chains should be a screw-gate locker, both must be clipped to be safe.
Stage "B". Problem-Redundancy.The rope, we all know those suckers can break, if it breaks we are DEAD!
Solution- We need to start climbing with 2-11mm ropes, now that would be safe.
Stage "C". Problem-Redundancy. We rely on a single partner to belay, if they pass out from the previous evenings binge-drinking we are DEAD!
Solution-We have 2-11mm ropes, why not utilize them in the safest way. A second belayer is the obvious choice, it
would be the safest option.
Stage "D". Problem-Fear. I'm scared on routes because the bolts are too far apart.
Solution-Add a chain starting at the ground, ending at the anchor. That way I could clip into the chain any time I want along the way, It would be the safest thing to do!
Stage "A". Problem- Redundancy, While leading a climber clips into one bolt at a time ........if that bolt blows we are DEAD!
Solution- add 2 more bolts at the first 3 clips creating a bomb-proof anchor system with a 2 chain clipping point. One
of the biners off the chains should be a screw-gate locker, both must be clipped to be safe.
Stage "B". Problem-Redundancy.The rope, we all know those suckers can break, if it breaks we are DEAD!
Solution- We need to start climbing with 2-11mm ropes, now that would be safe.
Stage "C". Problem-Redundancy. We rely on a single partner to belay, if they pass out from the previous evenings binge-drinking we are DEAD!
Solution-We have 2-11mm ropes, why not utilize them in the safest way. A second belayer is the obvious choice, it
would be the safest option.
Stage "D". Problem-Fear. I'm scared on routes because the bolts are too far apart.
Solution-Add a chain starting at the ground, ending at the anchor. That way I could clip into the chain any time I want along the way, It would be the safest thing to do!