Page 10 of 16
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:26 pm
by andy_lemon
Man, this is crazy! Now there are people
questioning the ones who top rope "through their draws" and people
who think that top roping in some respect is different from lowering off anchors?
If anything, a top rope set-up through the anchors will bring more damage to the anchors when the climber weights the rope and it is being run through the anchors... not as the climber goes up and the rope is being pulled through the anchors (as should be a similiar motion when you rap off then pull your rope through).
And lowering off of your own quickdraws?!
Do what you want on your own gear, n00b. That is what it is intended for. Don't lower off of anchors.
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:26 pm
by rhunt
if you clean all the draws when on top rope and your chillin in the anchors direct, at the point you untie and thread the rope through the anchor..at that point it just you in direct to the anchor and the rope running down to the belayer with nothing in between...that's when you are not on belay. I think that is what Wes was tryin to say.
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:29 pm
by Wes
Spragwa wrote:I don't clean the draws until the rope is threaded through the anchors and re-tied to me.
So, you all end up with a knot on both sides of the anchor? Why not just pass a bight through? Seems way less complex and less trouble.
Wes
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:30 pm
by squeezindlemmon
Blame Rizzo the woodrat..... he's the one spurring all these arguments..... tsk tsk, that rodent wasn't even satisfied with the attention and exposure he got from the Green Horn thread.
He wants more!
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:33 pm
by Wes
Wes wrote:Spragwa wrote:I don't clean the draws until the rope is threaded through the anchors and re-tied to me.
So, you all end up with a knot on both sides of the anchor? Why not just pass a bight through? Seems way less complex and less trouble.
Wes
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:33 pm
by Spragwa
Wes wrote:Spragwa wrote:I don't clean the draws until the rope is threaded through the anchors and re-tied to me.
So, you all end up with a know on both sides of the anchor? Why not just pass a bight through? Seems way less complex and less trouble.
Wes
The only reason that I quit doing the bite through is because there are some anchors where you can't get a full bite through. I agree that would be easier. But I just go with my tried and true method.
I used to be a real head case with cleaning the anchors...ummm...I had to sing while I was clening them to keep my head on straight. So, I've found a method of which I feel comfy and confident. No more subjecting my belayer to a rendition of "Preacher Man."
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:57 pm
by jstokes
rhunt wrote: if you clean all the draws when on top rope and your chillin in the anchors direct, at the point you untie and thread the rope through the anchor..at that point it just you in direct to the anchor and the rope running down to the belayer with nothing in between...that's when you are not on belay. I think that is what Wes was tryin to say.
This is how I was showed how to do it and always have. After I am in direct to the anchors, off belay, but still tied in at the belay loop, I will take some slack and tie the into a gear loop. I do this so if when I untie the end of the rope from my belay loop I can’t drop it before feeding it through the anchors and clipping it to my ATC. After in the ATC I unclip from the anchors and rap down.
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 9:02 pm
by Guest
I dropped the rope once when setting up to rap. Fortunately it was clipped to my harness. It still gave me a nice adrenaline rush!
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 9:09 pm
by Artsay
HA! I've done that too! I screamed and my heart flip/flopped.
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 9:12 pm
by busty
Metolius makes a nifty little product called the personal anchoring system. I use one of these when I clean instead of slings or daisy chains and I've liked it so far.
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pas.htm
I generally prefer to rap, but I lower sometimes. If feel comfortable setting up the rappel and generally prefer rappelling.