Rappelling or lowering off?

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

In single pitch crag climbing, like most of the climbing done here in the Red, after cleaning the anchor, do you prefer to rap off or be lowered off?

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andy_lemon
Posts: 1566
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:22 am

Post by andy_lemon »

Man, this is crazy! Now there are people questioning the ones who top rope "through their draws" and people who think that top roping in some respect is different from lowering off anchors?

If anything, a top rope set-up through the anchors will bring more damage to the anchors when the climber weights the rope and it is being run through the anchors... not as the climber goes up and the rope is being pulled through the anchors (as should be a similiar motion when you rap off then pull your rope through).

And lowering off of your own quickdraws?! :lol: :lol: :lol: Do what you want on your own gear, n00b. That is what it is intended for. Don't lower off of anchors.
Not a bitch.
rhunt
Posts: 3202
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm

Post by rhunt »

:lol: if you clean all the draws when on top rope and your chillin in the anchors direct, at the point you untie and thread the rope through the anchor..at that point it just you in direct to the anchor and the rope running down to the belayer with nothing in between...that's when you are not on belay. I think that is what Wes was tryin to say.
Last edited by rhunt on Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Spragwa wrote:I don't clean the draws until the rope is threaded through the anchors and re-tied to me.
So, you all end up with a knot on both sides of the anchor? Why not just pass a bight through? Seems way less complex and less trouble.

Wes
Last edited by Wes on Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
squeezindlemmon
Posts: 1452
Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:02 pm

Post by squeezindlemmon »

Blame Rizzo the woodrat..... he's the one spurring all these arguments..... tsk tsk, that rodent wasn't even satisfied with the attention and exposure he got from the Green Horn thread. :mrgreen: He wants more!
Emancipate yourself from mental slavery. None but ourselves can free our mind. ~Bob Marley
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Wes wrote:
Spragwa wrote:I don't clean the draws until the rope is threaded through the anchors and re-tied to me.
So, you all end up with a knot on both sides of the anchor? Why not just pass a bight through? Seems way less complex and less trouble.

Wes
Spragwa
Posts: 3650
Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 4:05 pm

Post by Spragwa »

Wes wrote:
Spragwa wrote:I don't clean the draws until the rope is threaded through the anchors and re-tied to me.
So, you all end up with a know on both sides of the anchor? Why not just pass a bight through? Seems way less complex and less trouble.

Wes
The only reason that I quit doing the bite through is because there are some anchors where you can't get a full bite through. I agree that would be easier. But I just go with my tried and true method.

I used to be a real head case with cleaning the anchors...ummm...I had to sing while I was clening them to keep my head on straight. So, I've found a method of which I feel comfy and confident. No more subjecting my belayer to a rendition of "Preacher Man." :P
Jesus only knows that she tries too hard. She's only trying to keep the sky from falling.

-Everlast
jstokes
Posts: 95
Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2004 11:09 pm

Post by jstokes »

rhunt wrote::lol: if you clean all the draws when on top rope and your chillin in the anchors direct, at the point you untie and thread the rope through the anchor..at that point it just you in direct to the anchor and the rope running down to the belayer with nothing in between...that's when you are not on belay. I think that is what Wes was tryin to say.
This is how I was showed how to do it and always have. After I am in direct to the anchors, off belay, but still tied in at the belay loop, I will take some slack and tie the into a gear loop. I do this so if when I untie the end of the rope from my belay loop I can’t drop it before feeding it through the anchors and clipping it to my ATC. After in the ATC I unclip from the anchors and rap down.
"Pain is temporary. Quitting lasts forever" - Lance Armstrong
Guest

Post by Guest »

I dropped the rope once when setting up to rap. Fortunately it was clipped to my harness. It still gave me a nice adrenaline rush!
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Artsay
Posts: 3282
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:11 pm

Post by Artsay »

HA! I've done that too! I screamed and my heart flip/flopped. :lol:
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.
busty
Posts: 675
Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 1:52 pm

Post by busty »

Metolius makes a nifty little product called the personal anchoring system. I use one of these when I clean instead of slings or daisy chains and I've liked it so far.

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pas.htm

I generally prefer to rap, but I lower sometimes. If feel comfortable setting up the rappel and generally prefer rappelling.
I'm an experienced woman; I've been around... well, alright, I might not've been around, but I've been... nearby.
~ Mary Richards (Mary Tyler Moore Show)
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