I did the original last year and it is cool, but the direct is awesome. I think the first crux is harder than the first, but you get to the rest pretty fresh.
Someone tell me that the first crux hold is a jug, and why I have blood blisters on my tips?
Anyway, I still think that you miss my point. All routes are technical at your limit. All routes require techniques, and are technical. Steep routes often more so.
My main point is that the routes at the RED are diverse, and to climb efficiently she or he must use many techniques and it is one of the most fun playgrounds in the country.
Good luck........be there saturday......to send!
Right to the big chalked jug, left to the big chalk jug
You couldn't be more right. Ever been at the gym and you have this problem you're working and you know each and every body position, thumb catch, etc? It's the most technical problem for you. You find that you can finally stick "the move" by shifting your hips an inch further to the right.Spoonman wrote: All routes are technical at your limit.
Then....
BAM! Some sick strong dude fucking BLASTS right through your "technical" problem like a jug haul. He open hands the crimps and doesn't even use the little foot chip you had to add to do "the move". He drops back down to the pads and tells you "cool problem".
Well, do you think he would consider your problem "technical"? Probably not because it was a V6 while he can go out and hammer down on V11s all day. He just freakin' campused your problem. How technical is that?
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
-Horatio
At first spoonman and Scin, I though wow you guys are on to something with the technical at your limit thing.
But think about most of the video footage of v10+ boulder problems that you have seen. They flat out campus through some moves. That is the technique. I don't think they are doing that because they don't know any technique. It is because using their feet at that point is not going to help them. So maybe that person that campused your v6 problem is actually practicing the technique necessary to do harder boulder problem than you.
But think about most of the video footage of v10+ boulder problems that you have seen. They flat out campus through some moves. That is the technique. I don't think they are doing that because they don't know any technique. It is because using their feet at that point is not going to help them. So maybe that person that campused your v6 problem is actually practicing the technique necessary to do harder boulder problem than you.