Speak Up!

[Cleveland]

yeah, i did. actually, i have no idea where to go. could use advice from the globe trotters... could be anywhere in the US. 10 day trip in July. looking for easy/moderate adventure, but not looking for mosquitos, big crowds, or anything too "alpine". limited multi pitch experience, but that's exactly what we're after. tall stuff, good for a half-day's adventure or more.

if i could find somewhere with a route equivalent to 20 "bedtime for bonzos" stacked up on top of each other, I'd go there. know what i mean?

We free soloed a route at the flatirons called Angels Way I think it goes at 5.0 and is really fun with really good views of boulder and other outlying areas it's 1200 feet i think so that's about what you are looking for. Approach was awesome, scenic and a nice trail. Saw 3 black bear on the way out. Def worth doing if your in the area. It is on mtn. project. Another good one in eldo is Long John Wall (my favorite climb to date). Also send Barnacle Ben a pm on here he can prolly help you with some cool places to climb in CO and outlying states.

[clif]

toad- sounds to me like Devils Tower should be on the list

[dustonian]

Hate to even mention it, but there are tons of awesome long moderate trad routes in North Carolina much closer to home... I was amazed last July how nice and cool it was in Linville Gorge and Ship Rock compared to the jungle swelter in the Red.

[toad857]

If you want easy and long, then ideally you would do the first and third flatirons to start out... pretty much the first formations you hit after escaping the infinite cornfields of Kansas and eastern CO. However, there are seasonal closures usually until July 31 or so:

http://flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpre ... -closures/

If you don't want alpine, your options are more limited for long stuff in CO and WY. Lumpy Ridge would be a must, as would Bastille Crack and Wind Tower in Eldo... hot weather could be a plus to keep crowds down. South Platte has some great stuff but it's shorter and kind of dispersed. Otherwise if you can stomach the hiking and altitude, get up into RMNP for the megaclassics... Petit Grepon, Spearhead, Diamond. Tetons and Wind Rivers in WY.

How far west are you going? Little Cottonwood Canyon has great stuff outside of SLC, and Tuolumne Meadows/High Sierra has many lifetimes worth of long awesome moderates. Yosemite Valley is too hot and crowded in July... not recommended.

cool, i'll check this stuff out.

i'm probably going to fly, so, not limited by distance. some of the "alpine" stuff I've looked at seems fine, but, i don't really know what "alpine" in july entails in the first place. have helmets, lots of gear, can build anchors.... 90% of all my climbing is done at the red, so i'll be out of my element regardless.

[toad857]

Hate to even mention it, but there are tons of awesome long moderate trad routes in North Carolina much closer to home... I was amazed last July how nice and cool it was in Linville Gorge and Ship Rock compared to the jungle swelter in the Red.

yeah--going to linville in the near future (maybe a few times).

i'm hooking up with my buddy from hawaii, though, so we're thinking west coast somwehere. maybe california, but we'll go where the best adventure is for us.

[clif]

Squamish sounds like a good pick for your bud

[dustonian]

i'm hooking up with my buddy from hawaii, though, so we're thinking west coast somwehere. maybe california, but we'll go where the best adventure is for us.

In that case, hit Tuolumne and the eastern Sierra! You will blow loads all over Cathedral Peak, Mt. Conness, Fairview Dome... great introduction to quasi-roadside "alpine" rockaneering! Damn I could climb those routes every year... granted, there may be a few mosquitoes around. But you can approach all of these routes in regular ol' sneakers, and pretty much climb them that way too.

Yeah, Squamish would be good as well. Lots of hot women there too.

[Cleveland]

What about Lake Tahoe? Anyone have any beta for that place, it looks sick!

[dustonian]

Oh yeah, Lover's Leap near Tahoe would be another great spot... some of the best moderates anywhere, 2-6 pitches. Nice campground and even a bar within walking distance! Crowded on weekends with the Bay area set though.

[dustonian]

Big weekend for traditional climbing in the Red! Yesterday Andrew Gearing sent the region's hardest trad line, "Sacred Geometry" (5.13c) at Long Wall. The route is a second pitch above the neglected classic "Mailbox", which is actually a killer warm-up. There is also a great new 11b in the main steep corner system to the left of Andrew's route called "Next Day Air", which we put up back in January. The send was a pretty protracted effort (by AG standards), requiring all of 6 or 7 tries spread over a few days this winter and spring. It is a stunning line with steep and spicy arete climbing leading to a bouldery crux with good pro.

Also, Enzo Oddo and Etienne Seppecher from France both sent "Charlie" (13b) at the Chocolate Factory today, for the route's first true redpoints. Congrats to all you badasses!!! Historic and exciting stuff... for my part, I spent the day cleaning and trying to send a totally "sick" new 11c--an overhanging OW with lots of suffering and squirming about and bleeding just like I enjoy (hey, we can't all climb hard, but some of us can sure suffer! ) Scott Curran finished off the day with a proud onsight FA of a cool mixed route I bolted over the winter called "Stinky Pinky Direct"... 2 bolts of sandy 5.11 laybacking to gorgeous 5.10 crack system. Way to get it done on a beautiful weekend everybody!!