Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

[ted]

thats "man talk" right there.

[pigsteak]

why would people stick their hands in a crack when there is that beautiful face begging to be bolted right next to it? such a shame...

[clif]

what is the world coming to when such a righteous conservative forgets their history?

as Alexander the Great said to Ghengis Khan: "nice hat"

[hypro]

yea, the ones on INFECTIONS have been up for a long time. Probably 2 years i think maybe or more

[climb2core]

Remember this thread... funny how things come full circle. There are two problems:

1.) In the absence of steel PD's people leave up aluminum mank.


2.) Climbers get in over their head on fully equipped routes because of low commitment levels.

How do we fix these?

1.) Change the culture of leaving up project draws through education. Put up signs, pass out flyers, have the educated act as stewards of fixed gear ethics at the Red. Discuss what is a reasonable and safe time for project draws to be left up. All of us Inspect and remove unsafe gear.

2.) Reduce PD's on anything but the very steep climbs. Go with cleaning biners on the moderately steep and anchors only on anything else.

That is my ideas for a solution. What are yours?


Last thing... Funny how my personal climbing ethics of not wanting to monopolize a climb just because I can seem a little more reasonable now. Have to say it... I told you so.

[graniteclimber]

Well, you're wrong.

The Solarium is in Muir, and the Weber's have asked that the permas in Muir not be removed. Case closed.

But you are right in that a 2 hour wank on Super Best Friends is Super Lame.

[climb2core]

Huh? What am I wrong about? In all of my posts I have always said

1) it is up to the land owner
2) fully equipped belong only on the very steep (unless land owner says otherwise... However I don't see the Webers having PDs put up on anything else in Muir)
3) Be respectful to your fellow climber

[clif]

what is wrong with people? when someone says you're wrong, accept it, you're wrong.