Saturday's Accident at PMRP

[bcombs]

Why do I worry you? This seems simple enough to me. The guy is mid-route, runs into gear he doesn't trust (regardless of if he should trust it or not), the responsible thing to do is back off and bail. It's not responsible to skip and keep going. It's also not responsible to clip and keep going, if you don't trust it.

Not that long ago someone in the Blue Mtn's died because some joker crew came through and put crap bolts in crap rock. Is the responsible thing in that scenario to clip and keep going if you think the gear is crap? I would hope not. The responsible thing to do is retreat to the last safe point and bail. Or if you are able to, create your own new safe point and bail.

I sure as hell am not going to clip into something just because it is there.

[toad857]

I don't think there would be any way to show him how stupid he was.

I think he figured it out on his own.

...augmented by 7 or so pages of speculation and scolding.

[caribe]

the responsible thing to do is back off and bail. It's not responsible to skip and keep going. It's also not responsible to clip and keep going, if you don't trust it.

Agreed!
most logical if no trust: back off and bail
next most logical if no trust: clip and go
least logical if no trust: go without clipping
but for fuck's sake, this is Muir Valley. Where have you been all this time? All the pages and pages of discussions about the force that a gluein in Corbin sandstone and withstand . . . this lack of knowledge in the age of information is not responsible or logical.
Of course this discussion is moot if troll.

[caribe]

Why do I worry you? .

It must be ♥.

[bcombs]

That is true, they should really know. I do remember the first time I came upon a glue in (at Torrent I think) and was confused by it. At the time all I knew was that magical bolt fairies came at night and put up fantastic lines for all the good sport climbing boys and girls.

BTW: Regarding the troll, I think they meant the girl calling Joe out was a troll, not the person who fell in Muir or their story of skipping bolts.

[krampus]

BTW: Regarding the troll, I think they meant the girl calling Joe out was a troll, not the person who fell in Muir or their story of skipping bolts.

yup, person who fell at muir is still a real live idiot as far as I can tell

[dustonian]

Why do I worry you? This seems simple enough to me. The guy is mid-route, runs into gear he doesn't trust (regardless of if he should trust it or not), the responsible thing to do is back off and bail. It's not responsible to skip and keep going. It's also not responsible to clip and keep going, if you don't trust it.

I sure as hell am not going to clip into something just because it is there.

Sorry, but if someone doesn't know what a glue-in bolt is and know better not to keep climbing above one without clipping it, then they haven't done enough homework to be on the sharp end.

[pigsteak]

man, those skinny glue ins at animal crackers wall freaked me out the first time I clipped them, and I had already heard the soundness/safety data on them....