I was at Drive By when CLee's fall occurred and I was motivated to join this forum and reply after reading some of the comments posted.
First, I would like to say to CLee that I am glad you are ok... you gave us all quite a scare! I had talked to CLee and her belayer just before they got on the route. We were "next in line" for Breakfast Burrito. One of the climbers in my group stayed to watch CLee climb while I went back to watch another friend on Head and Shoulders. I also played a small role as one of the first responders as several other members of my climbing party did.
I would like to make the following comments/observations of CLee's fall:
1.) I cannot understand how people can make judgements about either CLee's climbing ability or her belayers ability. I was at the crag, had a friend that saw the fall, and had a chance to see CLee climb on another harder route and I still feel that I am in no position to judge. I cannot determine either CLee's mindset or climbing ability without knowing and climbing with her.
2.) Was the fall preventable by belaying/spotting? That is a difficult question to answer, however, I can offer the following observations: CLee fell approximately 6 ft. back from the base of the wall and landed on a large, flat boulder that was approximately 2 1/2 to 3 ft. high. This has several implications... a.) Spotting would have been likely been ineffective in this instance as the logical place to spot seemed to be at the base of the climb. b.) The belayer was standing at the base of ther crag (base upon rope bag placement and first hand accounting of the fall) c.) Catching a blown second clip by the belayer became even m,ore challenging based upon the fact that CLee landed approx. 3 ft. higher than ground level where the belayer was standing at the base of the crag. Based upon the observations, I doubt that better belaying or spotting could have prevented the ground fall.
3.) Was the injury preventable by different bolting? Possibly a higher first bolt and closer second bolt could have prevented the injury. After looking at the bolt placements I don't think I would suggest that anything be changed.
4.) Was the injury preventable by CLee? Only CLee knows her physical and mental mindset before/during the climb and this something I believe she has already spoken too. Much of the potential severity of injury could have been mitigated with wearing a helmet. This event has reminded to always climb within my head and physical ability, to constantly evaluate worst case scenario's for myself and my climbing partners, and to error on the side of caution. Climbing is a recreational activity for most of us, and our paychecks are not dependent upon how many onsights, flashes, or hard redpoints we achieve.
5.) Was the emergent response excessive? I heard CLee deck from at least 50 yds away. It took me a minute to summon all my courage to even go look and see if I could help. Based upon how loud it was, I thought the fall was from much higher. My friend, who saw the fall, said she bounced approximately 2 ft. back up into the air, after that her eyes rolled back and she seized. Next blood began to spill over the rock and drip onto the ground. Upon regaining conciousness she was only orientated to person and repeatedly asked what happened and her leg burned (rope burn). Not trying to be graphic for sensationalism. Just want people to realize how serious a fall from 15 ft. can be. EMS response with a back board and heli transport was the only appropriate response.
6.) CLee, find the ER trauma nurse from UK Hospital and buy her dinner. (If you don't, I will... but for slightly more selfish reasons
Joking aside, you have an angel looking after you to have someone like that climbing at the crag the day of your fall. She was a true professional and was able to compently assess, manage, and direct your emergent care by the first responders that came to your aid.
7.) What can be done to prevent future falls? I believe it comes to actively seeking those in need of mentorship and providing your time and knowledge to foster the development of a safe climbing community. I had an experienced mentor that taught me. Now climbing for over a decade, I try to do the same. Many times I have been climbing at the gym and heard the new climbers planning there first outdoor excursion. I will often invite myself along or invite them to join my group.
Well, that is enough for now. Again CLee, I am glad you are ok. Hopefully the climbing community to can look at the accident for all of us to learn and grow from. I know I have.
Ian