Page 10 of 37
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:15 pm
by GWG
Russ,
Outstanding Man! Great work.
Can't wait to check it out in March.
Geoff
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 3:04 pm
by Crankmas
Great work Russ- sorry I wasn't there to heckle... encourage you..
PS I know where there is some trad booty for you- don't tell Hamsco or Tamara I told you about it- Peace
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 3:48 pm
by tambo2
You better watch it!
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:27 pm
by jrathfon
Nice send Russ!
So my question is what three pieces blew and why? I'm newish to the gorge and trying to get a feel for those tiny things that work oh so well in shawangunk quartzite and north conway granite like: micronuts, 00 C3, 0 C3, black and blue aliens, etc. Or were these just flaring placements or crusty rock?
This weekend did laps on autumn and rock wars, then did vector trouble, very fun!
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:48 pm
by rjackson
jrathfon wrote:So my question is what three pieces blew and why?
I ran through it on the previous page, but in addition...
The #0 C3 barely had bite (2 lobes) on a flaring placement on the edge of a non-existent constriction. The #1 C3 had bite, but was in a flaring and crusty placement. A direct downward fall on the #0 I thought 'might' catch, the #1 wasn't going to hold anything other than direct aid (softly applied). I placed both pieces as mental. The .3 C4 that blew was also in a flaring and crusty placement, not very deep and with no constrictions (I could have buried it but I didn't want to establish any fixed gear, or lose my piece). It may have held a shorter fall. The .5 that caught me was in the same flaring crack (a little less crusty) and I was able to find a good constriction on one side and the fit was perfect. I felt really good about that piece. Everything below that was also bomber.
It didn't seem like a big fall, but Chris said it was probably a 20 footer (by the time I stopped).
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:56 pm
by jrathfon
crusties and flare! bold! yeah, i must have missed the entire 6th page... i just tune in when i get update emails.
in my 8 or 9 weekends down at the gorge, my smallest placed pieces have been the red (#1) c3 and a #4 nut. i took two whippers on that #4, so seemed pretty happy with that. i haven't had the balls to wiggle in a blue alien yet... nor the need. the #6 c4 though!! oh yeah! p.s. cams are 20% off at ems.com right now.
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:29 pm
by ahab
jrathfon,
i see you have been hitting up the rrg trad delectables like a madman.
nice work, sir!
we should get together some weekend for a full on gear pluggin' extravaganza.
krampus and myself were tenatively planning a trip to muscle beach next weekend...
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:38 pm
by jrathfon
yup, it's been fun, i've had a few friends down, so i've done a number of repeats. i think i met you guys two weekends ago sunday morning on miguel's porch with tambo. i've had my go at muscle shoals and carnivorous, but i think now that i know what i'm getting into i can finish those two off.
high on my list right now are:
muscle shoals, carnivorous, rocket man
rebar, broken chicken wing, smoothie nut, riptide rush
jim's dihedral
that beene crack at military?
insanity ceiling
thunder chicken
it's gonna be a fun fall!
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:01 pm
by ahab
with a couple of exceptions, that looks like my grudge list....we'll talk.
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:54 pm
by rjackson
Crankmas wrote:Great work Russ- sorry I wasn't there to heckle... encourage you..
PS I know where there is some trad booty for you- don't tell Hamsco or Tamara I told you about it- Peace
Thanks. And I think Tamara's already onto you, meaning Hamsco isn't far behind. But I can keep a secret. Just ask Drew B...