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Greg, who the hell cares how many goes it takes Joe to send this route and that route. The fact is, he's done a helluva job marketing himself to companies and they've bought in. I'm sure he busts his ass to get his sponsorships and get to the point where he's at. He gets to climb all over the world on the best rock out there because of the companies that pay for him to do so. That's his job...not to impress you.

Is this route left-arm intensive? http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?t=10817
Thanks!

Greg, didn't you get noticed in the climbing world by free soloing a 13b? Much harder solos have been done. Maybe you shouldn't have taken the back door in. Shit, hadn't you climbed it 39873987 times? Honnold could probably solo it in his sleep, onsight. '

If everyone got noticed the way Sharma, Honnold, and Graham did, there'd only be 3 pro climbers. Then you'd have to pay for your shoes....

I guess my point is not really that clear. I have met joe, he seemed like a nice guy. I have not talked to him about this whole thing, but reading his blog made me laugh.

His diction ("my project", "the irrational act of Adam", "my place") is unnerving. He is a guest at the gorge, while Adam has spent much time there. Therefore, 50 words is not "his project" at all.

If I was at a crag somewhere where I have not done very much and I was trying a route and somebody chopped it, i would say "fuck it" and try another worthy line. And the red is full of 'em. I would not sweat it too much and certainly not call locals names.

I love 50 words for pump. Its a great rock climb. But there are hundreds of other good ones. I think the significance of the rock climb to Joe is summed up by 3 characters: 14c My hunch is that the dude wants points for the 14c ascent of a route that is in reality only 14a. So he should just unzip his vagina, let his balls hang out and go climb on the best rock in the world. I am in bumfuck north carolina, so I don't have much better to do than talk with you idiots on this website. That dude is in the best fucking climbing in the world and instead of being out there and climbing, he is bitchin about 1 route the whole damn day. Jesus...

I don't know the dude well, but I am a weenie sport climber and so is he. And therefore, I can get in his head a little bit and realize that what he really wants is a small 8a.nu blurb saying "Joe Kinder sends the hardest route at the Red River Gorge."

Now that the thing is chopped, he is scared because other climbs might not work out and there won't be an 8a blurb at all.

can't say i'm 100% in your camp but that arguement makes more sense than previous posts and i can get behind what you're sayin
keenan

"hardest rock climb in the Red"? I am betting that belongs to a choco factory proj...

or that wierd slab at solar collector that Thurston bolted... 8)

Word has it, from Mike Call and Boone Speed, that Sharma onsighted the right Choco factory project to the top... fell once, got back on, finished. His next go it was too dark to see the feet so he bailed.

He's on his way back though, so hopefully it goes down soon...

the bolts are fixed right.....cool......I don't know anyone involved nor do I ever have any real intention of climbing the thing. If I was working a project and someone kept taking my draws down so they could get a photo-op while sending the thing but not putting them back when they were done, I would be pissed, especially if the other guys draws were left on the path he was taking. I would not even think about hammering down the hangers, I might start taking the other draws down to piss the other guy off (with full intent on returning them, especially on a rout that there are not likely any other people going to suffer), but if he had full intention of fixing them, then I can see doing it, cus obviously, the point was made loud and clear. the act may have been overboard and irrational, but a picture of the guys face when he saw that he was not going to be working his project that day might make all the trouble worth it. OW's solution is probably the best, but that jsut me, I am rarely offensive but can be overly reactionary.

Ultmately though, potentially hurting the rock quality on a rout should not be an option

The bolts in the picture on Joe's page seem to be really close together, they must be no more than 2(1/2) ft apart!!! How the heck do you justify not being able to send when the bolts are so close, looks like the new bolts never needed to be there in the first place!!!

You've never found a bolt to be just out of reach? Have you rock climbed before?