The Trad Climbers Inequality

[ahab]

Once you have mastered the trick or say 5.8 handjaming then you can tell how hard it is.

disclosure: i don't know shit about trad.

smurfy: after last weekend, i could not agree more. i got on "into the purple valley" ( 5.8 ) and almost blew it on the jam section in the middle. i got down thinkin', "no fuckin' way this is 5.8!!". after contemplating once my heart rate was back to normal, i realized that it probably WAS a 5.8 line and would have felt as such if i had any hand jam skills whatsoever.

[JRTrash]

That name "kidney dave" freaks me out.
_________________
I drink the blood of your vas defrens.

Does nobody else find this amusing?

[kidney_dave]

and morgan, no...i am not a trad god...but the ZERO trad routes you have been on pale in comparison to the 25 or so that i have ticked off already...so at least i have a base of reference for my comments...strength is not always the answer...
next time you wanna be a douche bag do it with more panache and better information....

[krampus]

would you guys quit writing anthems. Sum up your post into a witty smart ass remark and be done with it. I am totally lost on this thread.

[Horatio Felacio]

fuck you cracker.

[charlie]

Spray is lame, whining about how unjust the mechanism that enables you to spray is even lamer.

Trad climbing is different than sport climbing, but not better/worser/harder/weirder.

JR and OW should be discounted from all conversations related to average climbing because even though they are hobbits, they train a ton and are way too strong to understand the challenges of mere mortals.

Blake has all the pics from Indian Creek on his SLR.

Ratings should be limited purely to how many stars they have, and no more than 3 total.

[512OW]

Amen Charlie. I feel ya, but I'm 5'8" and a half... thats at least a half inch over hobbit status.

Smurf... I have a few more bolted lines left at Sky Bridge. I'd be happy to meet you up there one day and give the Inhibitor dissertation and some technique pointers.

Traddies make the same mistake that gymmies make... once they can "do" something, they think they can really do it. Gymmies have 25 or 40 feet worth of endurance, and think they can "really" climb 5.12, and traddies think that because they can do a hand jam... they "know" how to hand jam.

Jams, locks, stacks, etc... are exactly like holds. With practice, you'll get more and more comfortable and be able to rest on worse and worse jams. Practice them, and you'll understand. 5.10 cracks will all of a sudden be one rest stance after another.

As far as Royal Robbins goes...... gimme a break. They were doing 5.9 slabs. Those techniques are trivial compared to todays sport climbing.

[ynot]

That name freaks me out.
Great arguments people. keep it up!

[flip]

Can I come to your Inhibitor dissertation?

[512OW]

Yes. Bring your pretty wife.