Rock Star watch

Post by **the lurkist** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:59 am

I took four days bolting Skeletor, going up and down it on jumars trying to decide the most advantageous clipping stances with really very few good options. I saw all the moves and new (know) they would all go on an individual basis (albeit at some mutant future standard), but not only did I know I never could do it in any imagined state of disciplined fitness/ years of training, I couldn't imagine anyone at the time being able to possibly do it. I knew then that it would require a new generation of climbers. It is the only route I ever took the bolts out of and stripped, b/c as I said, I couldn't imagine anyone doing it. It was that absurd.
Chris Martin went and rapped it at my urging just to see the vision. He put the bolts back in (and maybe moved one or two?). We both agreed to let it stand as an open proj for the future.
Dave is the only dude to go on it to the best of my knowledge. At the time of his sending Just Do It in four tried, he could do five moves on Skeletor, but conceded that it did go.
So, here we are with rock stars thick as fleas on a dog. Someone should get over there on a Sunday and check it out.
Funny thing is, I kind of reckoned at the time that it would probably take fifteen years or so for the standards to rise to it. I think I might have been right.
The only thing I have seen in the Red (or anywhere) that may be harder is Kenny's route on the right of the Choco Factory.

Post by **Meadows** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:25 am

the lurkist wrote: I am not going anywhere. I will have the biggest comeback since George "The Preacher Man" Foreman. I will climb 5.12 again, oh yes.....

Which means we'll see him on t.v. selling the next best indoor grill. Maybe Raybestos needs a new model for their car brakes.

Post by **rhunt** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:56 am

I am all for a rock stars sending Skeletor but please don't get caught by the oil company....that could make roctripober fest (or locally known as rockafest) a waste. I want to see pics of Graham or Sharma, etc on it wearing camo and black face paint and small ear pieces to communicate with thier belayers. Oh and the belayer belaying from a porta ledge.

Post by **tomdarch** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 3:14 pm

you forgot the rap line to the side so that they never set foot on the ground at the base of the cliff.

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 5:30 pm

thank you rhunt for the wake up call.....rock stars aren't exempt from the same "rules" that the rrgcc has asked us to follow for years.

Post by **the lurkist** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:18 pm

Whatever, dude. If you can't see a necessity for civil disobedience in the face of onerous and indefensible restraints placed on a group of people, then might reappraise the situation. The coalition has a right to passage to access our property.

Post by **ReachHigh** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:21 pm

can't we get an easement to our own land?

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 9:01 am

lurk, i am 100% for civil disobedience in this instance..in all seriousness, how do you suggest we go about it?

all we ever hear is "obey the rules" so we don't ruin "relations" with the oil company execs...I think they have us scared stiff.

I realize this probably can't be something that the RRGCC "condones", but if we act outside their institution...

does civil disobedience need to be made known to those we are revolting against? ie..if we do it "covertly", that really isn't making a point..only sneaking around.

Post by **the lurkist** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 9:04 am

good point. sneak it is then.

Post by **Saxman** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 9:35 am

Heard yesterday that Sharma has decided to stay for a month and Josh Lowell is supposed to be coming down to film. We ran into Dave Hume at The Gallery. Then saw Mike Doyle (and 7 other people piling out of a Hyundai Sonata!!!) at the Sore Heal parking lot.