RRC Archives

As an elite climber, I think you people are missing the boat completely. It is all about domination, conquest, and being the best. For you sucky posers maybe it is about some zen shit, but that isn't the motivation for us.

See you in October.

rhunt wrote:well said TankAzz!

"overhanging crimp ladder" wasn't that Sharma's impression of the Red 10 years ago when he came here with Katie Brown? Maybe he'll feel differently this time.

Wasn't his fault. I was there the day they brought him to the Red. Of course, Jeff Moll and company took him straight to the Lode.

What he climbed were overhanging crimp ladders...

The lode sucks.

Paul, I think you are right on with the whole population thing. However, I would not rule out the weather or the rock quality arguments.

1) Think back to when you took a trip out west. Wasn't it comforting to know all the time and money spent to get out there was going to be turned into days climbing. I may have just been lucky but every time I go West. I run into sunny days, albeit sometimes hot or cold. I personally climb in some nasty conditions at the Red. I would never be able to tell someone from California to come on over for a week. "Hey, You might get lucky(with the weather) in Kentucky". I think I remember David Graham having the same sort of problem. He put up hard routes in Rumney but for years no one would travel there because the weather was to iffy. I could be wrong but since he left Rumney I would venture to say there hasn't been a ton of 14+ routes put up.(I think there was a variation on his route that clocked in at 14+ but still. The weather matters.)

2) Rock quality. Well it has been said. Even on quality routes like Thanatopsis stuff breaks. I like Mike Doyles comment on not using the handholds as footholds. I have been climbing some fairly new routes and holds do break. Big holds. I can imagine rock qualiy being an issue for elite climbs.

512OW wrote:

rhunt wrote:well said TankAzz!

"overhanging crimp ladder" wasn't that Sharma's impression of the Red 10 years ago when he came here with Katie Brown? Maybe he'll feel differently this time.

Wasn't his fault. I was there the day they brought him to the Red. Of course, Jeff Moll and company took him straight to the Lode.

What he climbed were overhanging crimp ladders...

Huh? What? You weren't there. He was staying with the Brown family and they were the ones giving him the tour. Get your facts straight before you start busting blatant lies.
Where would you have taken him, Hampton's Wall, Muscle Beach, Indian Creek? The quotes that we would have out of him about The Red would be in a whole different league if the tour was left to you.

why, looks like Buster is getting a bit red in the face about third hand information....

why, that reminds me of a thread a few weeks back started on third hand information about chipping. and if I recall, the author of that thread seemed to really love perpetuating the "facts" as he heard them..but then again, I am assuming that author "got his facts straight before he started busting blatant lies."

(you can thank me later for helping to keep this place honest.)

pigsteak wrote:why, looks like Buster is getting a bit red in the face about third hand information....

why, that reminds me of a thread a few weeks back started on third hand information about chipping. and if I recall, the author of that thread seemed to really love perpetuating the "facts" as he heard them..but then again, I am assuming that author "got his facts straight before he started busting blatant lies."

(you can thank me later for helping to keep this place honest.)

Hey fuck you, dickhead. My post about chipping said " I heard this from this person, what do you all think?" not "I was there when the lord of the manor was chipping his heap to shit". I know that the difference between these two types of statements is subtle but even someone that is as pigheaded and dense as you are ought to be able to grasp the difference. I'll thank you now to keep your stupid thoughts to yourself.

piggie,

there weren't any misrepresentations in that previous thread (from buster at least). and he didn't bust with any names just the situation. re: this thread i think he had a perfectly valid point. where would you have taken sharma at the time to show him elite level routes? One of your cliffs? Oh that's right you weren't climbing here then. My mistake.

and regarding his visceral response, I don't want to speak for buster but I do know that he is very serious about historical accuracy. It seems that climbing history is being rewritten (not here as much as our history is ridiculously lame [i.e. check out the super old school dip shit postings] but for other places) for some of his other old home areas and it bugs him hard. I think all of that is partially due to the changing of the guard as climbing goes from a real man's game (an illusion) to a sport for kiddies (the natural progression [thank god ] - to quote Flex "Rock Climbing is neither"). That said, I am sure he will weigh in on your comments in his own very special way.

This is all between one lame ass chuffer and another of course. So have a great day, climb hard, and try not to swallow so much. Btw, that Black Canvas route you bolted is bad ass! It feels pretty hard but the climbing is really techie.

finally excuse the nested (i.e. (..[ ..] ..) ) parenthetical statements. I was lazy, and have been coding/working too much here in the last week.

Well i just noted that Buster has already replied, but i will post this anyway.

er, back on track:

About holds breaking, I've seen plenty of hold breakage at limestone areas - including finishing a popular route at Wild Iris with the obligatory yarding on the finishing jug while clipping - the next guy up the route grabbed the finishing jug and came away with about 15 lbs. of the jug in his hand. Maybe I haven't climbed that much limestone, but my sense is that even after the "break-in" period, the average limestone route looses holds at roughly the same rate as an average sandstone route. (Not to mention the fact that sandstone doesn't polish like limestone....)

Isn't a plus on working hard routes at the Red compared to some other areas (e.g. Rumney) the fact that the rock isn't all that rough on your skin?

an exfoliating experience with every send