RRC Archives

hearn wrote:Just got on it this weekend. Abiyoyo climbed real nice, though the epoxy hold was a bit of a dissapointment.

Yeah, I dont know if I understand why the hold was epoxyed. The hold is not even important. There is a jug right next to it.

do a search, i think they explained why the glued it..

Paul3eb wrote:do a search, i think they explained why the glued it..

Perhaps my seach skills are not up to par, but I could not find anything. It does mention in the online guide that someone glued it on cause it was creaking. I just noticed there was another big jug right next to the glued one.

The glued hold still creaks when you grab it and if it's the hold I'm thinking of, the jug below ain't so solid either. It has a crack running below it. The glued hold is easy to avoid as a hand, but it sure makes a nice foothold.

Sounds like the route is going to get harder then

Areterection. Not very many aretes in the gorge, let alone ones this good.

Science Friction at Roadside
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1291

I stood at the start of this thing for about five minutes today wondering how the hell I was supposed to get off the ground. It kicked my ass a few times but in the end I found just the right body english to take it down. I recommend it to anyone like me who gets a case of the stupids when there are no holds to grab.

No holds exactly. I walked over to that thing one day with a notion of getting on it and said outloud no way.

My How things Have Changed at Torrent.
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1317

No chalk at all on this thing and it is a super cool route. This and Livin' in the UK (two routes left of this) are both stellar, old Jeff Moll lines.

ohio arts short bouldery second pitch to edge a sketch. slopy crimpy coolness dont be afraid of falling on the slab beneath, its not a bad fall if your belayer doesnt have alot of slack out.