Favorite route of the week

Post by **Caspian** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:44 pm

hearn wrote:Just got on it this weekend. Abiyoyo climbed real nice, though the epoxy hold was a bit of a dissapointment.

Yeah, I dont know if I understand why the hold was epoxyed. The hold is not even important. There is a jug right next to it.

Post by **Paul3eb** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 8:23 pm

do a search, i think they explained why the glued it..

Post by **Caspian** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 8:33 pm

Paul3eb wrote:do a search, i think they explained why the glued it..

Perhaps my seach skills are not up to par, but I could not find anything. It does mention in the online guide that someone glued it on cause it was creaking. I just noticed there was another big jug right next to the glued one.

Post by **Toy** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:14 pm

The glued hold still creaks when you grab it and if it's the hold I'm thinking of, the jug below ain't so solid either. It has a crack running below it. The glued hold is easy to avoid as a hand, but it sure makes a nice foothold.

Post by **Caspian** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:22 pm

Sounds like the route is going to get harder then

Post by **One-Fall** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 12:50 am

Areterection. Not very many aretes in the gorge, let alone ones this good.

Post by **SCIN** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 2:21 am

Science Friction at Roadside
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1291

I stood at the start of this thing for about five minutes today wondering how the hell I was supposed to get off the ground. It kicked my ass a few times but in the end I found just the right body english to take it down. I recommend it to anyone like me who gets a case of the stupids when there are no holds to grab.

Post by **mcrib** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 2:52 am

No holds exactly. I walked over to that thing one day with a notion of getting on it and said outloud no way.

Post by **Artsay** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 11:16 pm

My How things Have Changed at Torrent.
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1317

No chalk at all on this thing and it is a super cool route. This and Livin' in the UK (two routes left of this) are both stellar, old Jeff Moll lines.

Post by **Stewy911** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 11:19 pm

ohio arts short bouldery second pitch to edge a sketch. slopy crimpy coolness dont be afraid of falling on the slab beneath, its not a bad fall if your belayer doesnt have alot of slack out.