Wes wrote:I guess I took that is aimed at me, since I am a sorta local, and I have given my opinion on some things that I think could have been done better.What our developers DO hear is the whines of a handful of RRG locals about what's wrong.
Puzzled here. I wrote: "On a related note, not directed at you Wes, but rather in general." Not sure how I could have made it clearer.
You are certainly entitled to your opinion, and coming from a respected, skilled climber, I take it seriously. But, you'll have to agree that your criticisms in your last post are very general and speculative. When you have climbed and studied ALL of the 240 existing sport routes at Muir, then your generalizations will certainly carry much weight. It's pretty easy to suggest that "maybe" cases of FA fever exist. It's more constructive to provide specific examples. Although...Wes wrote:My personal feelings, as best as I can express them, are that Muir is a great resourse, that it has a ton of good to exceptional routes. I also feel that maybe too many routes were put up in too much of a hurry, without fully thinking about bolt placements and how the routes would be climbed. Maybe the developers got a case of FA fever, and couldn't see anything but the next route...
Six world-class route setters can look at one wall and come up with six entirely different ways to bolt it. Other than unsafely locating bolts, there really are no right and wrong ways to establish a bolt pattern. It is very, very subjective. Are you sure, Wes, that perhaps your observations are merely another way to do the bolting -- maybe better and maybe worse than the established route?
I do disagree with your suggestion that too many Muir routes were put up in too much of a hurry. I've seen the developers spend a lot of time studying possible lines and scoping out placements. An overwhelming number of visitors, who, like you, are respected climbers, make specific detailed compliments on the quality of the route designs. This is fact -- not just the old guy sticking up for the kids with the Bosche drills. Oh for sure, there is also criticism, but honestly, relative to the compliments, very little. Some critiques have been specific and have resulted in reworking some routes. Some have been general and vague.
For reasons I don't understand, the general, and therefore, unconstructive, complaints have mostly come from one small group. I think it is really unfortunate that some of you seem to wish to stir up a rivalry. I am neither defending nor apologizing for some of the postings made by the Muir folks. But, when you continually poke at a snake with a stick, it just might get pissed and bite back.
Muir's route setters are intensely hard working. Hundreds of hours have been spent establishing lines and cleaning rock. I can't figure out what drives them. But, I believe that the speed at which routes are being put up does not mean that they are being put up too hastily. They are putting up lots of climbs simply because they work darned long and hard at it.
Hell, they can't even get enough sweat at Muir. The entire team showed up at the Johnnie/Alex Crag day down in the MPRP and also spent the weekend before prepping routes there. And, those of you who were there know they worked their butts off. I really don't know where they get their zeal and energy.
One final important point to everyone in general. If any of you who have climbed at Muir have specific and constructive criticisms of any route in Muir Valley, please PLEASE contact me via PM and I will personally address your concerns in a respectful manner. I especially welcome information about something being amiss, such as the prompt reporting of the missing bolt by HOSS. We honestly do realize that there is always room for improvement.
Rick
