Ground fall at Torrent, Sunday Sept 5

Post by **the lurkist** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 9:08 am

btw- . The reality of a "shattered heel" is that these injuries often end with fusion of the ankle joint- a very disabling injury.

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 12:10 pm

I broke my heel from a 30' groundfall (not too serious though). I was climbing a month later (but not bouldering). The other one had a stress fracture. The hike out of there really sucked.

Post by **Meadows** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 12:19 pm

J-Rock always has the best climbing injury stories. He's usually the life of our parties because he has so many!!

Post by **t bone** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 12:20 pm

Well said Lurk!

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 12:26 pm

Meadows wrote:J-Rock always has the best climbing injury stories. He's usually the life of our parties because he has so many!!

And we all wonder why his parents keep telling him to grow up... I think he banged his head one too many times!!! HAHA! Just kidding, J....

Post by **weber** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 1:00 pm

Although there is no general consensus in this thread on tieing in or not, the opinions presented have many of us thinking about our belay techniques. Even for those who prefer tieing in the belayer, many climbs in the Red don't offer a place to do so, or they present a potential lead fall so hairy that a dynamic belay must be used (Sunshine?).

The one solid theme that is woven through the postings is that whatever belay devices or techniques are used, lots of practice is mandatory -- especially for new climbers.

Since the Torrent accident, the route setters at Muir have discussed the climber competency issues and have decided to put up a practice/training wall that would include a couple extra strong anchors for practicing both taking and belaying lead falls. It will also include five or six sets of various anchors (chain, Metolius rap, Fixe ring, etc.) commonly found in the Red that are mounted 8 feet off the deck where newer climbers can learn how to clean anchors and set up safe raps with an instructor close enough to evaluate the rig.

Next summer, we would like to have a safe climbing clinic at Muir where some of the Red's seasoned best can get together to share thoughts and to coach newer climbers on safe climbing and belaying techniques. The day will end with food, music, and gear door prizes. (Everyone attending gets something.)

For those of you newer climbers who are coming to the Gathering trail day on Saturday, the 18th of this month and who would like some pointers from experienced climbers, several of the Red's old timers will be at the Great Wall area Sunday (the day after trail day) to offer advice to any requesting it.

Weber

Post by **dhoyne** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 1:05 pm

Meadows wrote:J-Rock always has the best climbing injury stories. He's usually the life of our parties because he has so many!!

"So I took this big rock and smashed it into my dislocated shoulder..."

Post by **vic** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 1:15 pm

Keep in mind that a new device is out right now: It is very similar to the Gri-Gri, yet offers an “almost” full-proof control of the climber:
Better and safer for lowering.
Better and safer for catching a fall.
Not the easiest to give out rope.
Much smaller and much lighter.

Manu: Trango
Price: $50 or so.

That should provide new climbers with a safer way to belay... but who knows until we really put it out to the test?

Post by **lordjim_2001** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 1:20 pm

Vic is talking about the Trango Cinch if you didn't know that. Runs about $60. Anyone here got one or played with it who can compare it to the Gri?

Post by **vic** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 1:36 pm

ahahah.... what's new? For the life in me, I couldn't remember the name.
Anyone who knows me may think it's funny, any body else might think that it's pathetic that I can't remember names. After all, couldn't they just call it the B52, A777 or similar?