RRC Archives

pigsteak wrote:snipped.......
trad is boring and time consuming....bottom line.

Maybe to you, but the best thing about trad is it usually happens at the crags where the crowds ain't. Keep clipping your bolts, that's the way we like it.

Sandy wrote:

Uncle Big Green wrote:earlier, I was just worried that people were lowered off the anchors. hence my annoying vigilance.

unfortunately, people do lower off anchors.

that's why I'm going to start bringing my BB gun to use on people who refuse to rap.

nothing wrong with crowds....climbing is 80% social anyway...like I have always said, climbing at the Red is hardly a wilderness experience. roads to everywhere..climbs to nowhere.

and no worries about me trying to find your super secret, rhodo infested, cob web laden, uphill both ways, splitter "fingers to tips dude" crack....enjoy...

pigsteak wrote:nothing wrong with crowds....climbing is 80% social anyway...like I have always said, climbing at the Red is hardly a wilderness experience. roads to everywhere..climbs to nowhere.

and no worries about me trying to find your super secret, rhodo infested, cob web laden, uphill both ways, splitter "fingers to tips dude" crack....enjoy...

Never said it was a wilderness experience but I don't dig on lines or a multitude of chuffers.

Porkboy and Me clearly have different perspectives on climbing, not that it suprises me.

trad boring???

The transformation from sport climbing to trad climbing only requires that you get a couple of decent size nuts

A lot of people that don't "like" gri-gris have never really taken the time to get comfortable with them. I've found once they do they finally understand that they kick ass. I tend to get short roped a lot from people using ATC's.

Buncha whiney butts. You should all just boulder.Problems solved.
Leave the Red to us chuffers.

pigsteak, people absolutely should learn to belay with an atc. having worked in a gym for 4 years i witnessed many gumbywads who learned with gri-gri's often didn't understand what was happening when they needed to catch a fall.

Here is the biggest problem with that. a gri gri costs 70 bucks and an atc 15. the new climbers don't start with gri gri's they start with atc's. often they don't have money for a gri gri on top of rope, draws, harness, shoes, etc. then if a more experienced climber or gym taught them just with a gri gri they don't have a clue. I have seen it happen before many times.

i have also seen many beginners fuck up while using a gri gri. there are quite number of ways to do so. you don't see it as much with atc's because people don't trust the device. they are more likely to pay attention to what is going on if they don't just think the device will automatically catch the person.

in theory you are right, if all people used were gri gri's then that is all they would need to learn but that is not the case.

on a different subject.

you do not need your hand on the break rope with a gri gri. when you are soloing or speed climbing you are trusting the gri gri to catch you and your hand is definately not on it. that is one the the advantages of the gri gri for multi-pitch and aid, you can take your hands off and do rope management or fall asleep while your partner is taking forever to lead a pitch. in fact the #1 reason people claim when they say a gri-gri is safer is that if something happens to the belayer the gri gri will still catch the leader. it is not bad idea to keep your hand on the rope but you do not need to have it on the rope.

merrick..well said..finally someone with some sense....hand on the break is some pseudo safety thing....the cam catches you..period. I agree..it is a GOOD idea, but only because it keeps you in good habits.

I too worked at a gym, and we only taught on atc's..I hear ya on that....we would not let someone use a gri gri until we felt comfy that they could use the atc....

i just love to stir trouble on here... 8) any competent climber should know how to use an atc....and trad is the bomb....

and I am freaking stuck inside on this perfect saturday working......egads!!!!