RRC Archives

15 more minutes to donate if you want to get in on the Heart Hold drawing... (12pm EST)

dustonian wrote:Yeah, I've been pulling lots of sketch 2-3/4" and 3/8" bolts lately.

These weren't even 2-3/4 they were only 2 inches, maybe only 1-3/4 I will have to measure one. I have pulled a lot of bolts and these were the shortest I have seen.

Yikes, good one. The original bolts on Sugar Magnolia were those shitty Redhead wedge bolts you can get at Home Depot for like 40 cents a "pop" (so to speak)... prime example of what NOT to do!! Thanks to Lee Smith for pointing this out and sponsoring the route.

Andrew, send me pics if you can. Nothing like seeing shitty bolts to get people caring.

Going rebolting on Monday. If anyone is interested, especially if you want to carpool from cinci with my dad and I.

My dad rebolted High Hard One yesterday, while I was the subman. While I was climbing the route to hang the fixed line I noticed that this route had some of the worst bolts I have seen yet. Especially the second bolt with the spider web of cracks in the rock emanating from the bolt. wow. The old bolts still need to be pulled and I am interested to see their integrity.

Nice boys! Whoever gets to the chopping first, take some pictures please. Also I can reimburse for hole patching material. I should get out there in the next 2 weeks hopefully.

Andrew wrote:My dad rebolted High Hard One yesterday, while I was the subman. While I was climbing the route to hang the fixed line I noticed that this route had some of the worst bolts I have seen yet. Especially the second bolt with the spider web of cracks in the rock emanating from the bolt. wow. The old bolts still need to be pulled and I am interested to see their integrity.

I can pull the old bolts for you this coming weekend Andrew. Hopefully I can put those permas on 40 oz too and maybe put a fixed line on it.

It is sometimes easier to not put a fixed line on the route. Don't put one on until I talk to you. Just let me know if you pull the bolts so that we can take that into consideration when planning. Thanks

I pulled the old bolts on High Hard One... its ready to go and one of the better on the wall. I was shocked by the poor bolts on this route. The second bolt which had a spider web of crack running from the bolt was only a 2 inch bolt and when I pulled it the rock was bright orange and green, damp, and complete sand. I am amazed that bolt held for so long.