Speak Up!
Re: Speak Up!
Eldo is one of my all-time favorites.... that canyon is so dreamy!!
Re: Speak Up!
finally got on Headstone Surfer a few weeks ago. back in the day, before Muir and PMRP, Funk Rock was high on the list of places to go with what was then a lot of routes at various grades.... so like my first trip to the Red i had seen Headstone and, ~15? years later-done. nice and long, clean and quality rock.
-->Doppler Effect 2027!
-->Doppler Effect 2027!
training is for people who care, i have a job.
Re: Speak Up!
I get a half chub just thinking about that placedustonian wrote:Eldo is one of my all-time favorites.... that canyon is so dreamy!!
"Do it"
Re: Speak Up!
Nice Clif! FRC is still high on the list these days in my opinion.
I forgot about this thread for traditional spray. Scott Hammon and I did a pretty rad 5.10 the other day at Chocolate Factory... "Strongyloides," named for a parasitic nematode that enters the bloodstream and then intestine via bare feet, apparently endemic to Kentucky. Super steep, super wide, super scary-looking, but really not that hard thanks to the ability to stem and butt/shoulder-scum your way up the thing. Very fun atypical climbing with a couple of nice armbars and full turn-around manuevers before the juggy exit moves to a nice bolted anchor on a ledge.
Anyway it's just right of the Golden Ticket and Pure Imagination in the big obscene-looking corner system. Gear up to 4 or 5", belay on top to avoid sucking your cams back into the gaping maw when lowering. Stays wet after rain and has a bit of lichen, but it will clean up well and the rock is high quality. Get on it!
I forgot about this thread for traditional spray. Scott Hammon and I did a pretty rad 5.10 the other day at Chocolate Factory... "Strongyloides," named for a parasitic nematode that enters the bloodstream and then intestine via bare feet, apparently endemic to Kentucky. Super steep, super wide, super scary-looking, but really not that hard thanks to the ability to stem and butt/shoulder-scum your way up the thing. Very fun atypical climbing with a couple of nice armbars and full turn-around manuevers before the juggy exit moves to a nice bolted anchor on a ledge.
Anyway it's just right of the Golden Ticket and Pure Imagination in the big obscene-looking corner system. Gear up to 4 or 5", belay on top to avoid sucking your cams back into the gaping maw when lowering. Stays wet after rain and has a bit of lichen, but it will clean up well and the rock is high quality. Get on it!
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Re: Speak Up!
planning a trip for July--maybe to Eldorado canyon. Too hot, maybe? Any thoughts?Cleveland wrote:I get a half chub just thinking about that placedustonian wrote:Eldo is one of my all-time favorites.... that canyon is so dreamy!!
Re: Speak Up!
Yeah pretty hot. You will be chasing shade for sure.... Eldo is great on cold days. You might get lucky though. Get on the Edge for sure if temps reasonable... one of the best anywhere. Bastille Buttress is pretty shady... Outer Space Direct etc.
Lumpy Ridge, RMNP, and South Platte will be goin off...
Lumpy Ridge, RMNP, and South Platte will be goin off...
Last edited by dustonian on Fri Mar 30, 2012 2:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Speak Up!
On another note, I heard a rumor that Horatio sprad-climbed Dracula!?! True??
Re: Speak Up!
Did you post on Mountain Project too?toad857 wrote:planning a trip for July--maybe to Eldorado canyon. Too hot, maybe? Any thoughts?Cleveland wrote:I get a half chub just thinking about that placedustonian wrote:Eldo is one of my all-time favorites.... that canyon is so dreamy!!
"Do it"
Re: Speak Up!
yeah, i did. actually, i have no idea where to go. could use advice from the globe trotters... could be anywhere in the US. 10 day trip in July. looking for easy/moderate adventure, but not looking for mosquitos, big crowds, or anything too "alpine". limited multi pitch experience, but that's exactly what we're after. tall stuff, good for a half-day's adventure or more.
if i could find somewhere with a route equivalent to 20 "bedtime for bonzos" stacked up on top of each other, I'd go there. know what i mean?
if i could find somewhere with a route equivalent to 20 "bedtime for bonzos" stacked up on top of each other, I'd go there. know what i mean?
Re: Speak Up!
If you want easy and long, then ideally you would do the first and third flatirons to start out... pretty much the first formations you hit after escaping the infinite cornfields of Kansas and eastern CO. However, there are seasonal closures usually until July 31 or so:
http://flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpre ... -closures/
If you don't want alpine, your options are more limited for long stuff in CO and WY. Lumpy Ridge would be a must, as would Bastille Crack and Wind Tower in Eldo... hot weather could be a plus to keep crowds down. South Platte has some great stuff but it's shorter and kind of dispersed. Otherwise if you can stomach the hiking and altitude, get up into RMNP for the megaclassics... Petit Grepon, Spearhead, Diamond. Tetons and Wind Rivers in WY.
How far west are you going? Little Cottonwood Canyon has great stuff outside of SLC, and Tuolumne Meadows/High Sierra has many lifetimes worth of long awesome moderates. Yosemite Valley is too hot and crowded in July... not recommended.
http://flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpre ... -closures/
If you don't want alpine, your options are more limited for long stuff in CO and WY. Lumpy Ridge would be a must, as would Bastille Crack and Wind Tower in Eldo... hot weather could be a plus to keep crowds down. South Platte has some great stuff but it's shorter and kind of dispersed. Otherwise if you can stomach the hiking and altitude, get up into RMNP for the megaclassics... Petit Grepon, Spearhead, Diamond. Tetons and Wind Rivers in WY.
How far west are you going? Little Cottonwood Canyon has great stuff outside of SLC, and Tuolumne Meadows/High Sierra has many lifetimes worth of long awesome moderates. Yosemite Valley is too hot and crowded in July... not recommended.