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Have you used the Edelrid Eddy belay device? Expensive but pretty much idiot proof. My climbing partner has one which is the only experience I've had with it.

http://www.edelrid.de/en/sports/product ... /eddy.html

"A controlled descent with an emergency brake system eliminates the "panic pull“ syndrome which can lead to serious accidents." . . . The camming device will lock down on the rope if opened too far.

GWG wrote:Have you used the Edelrid Eddy belay device? Expensive but pretty much idiot proof. .

c'est ne exist pas

sounds cool. looks just like a gri gri

Once I tried to not be a chatty belayer but realized that if I didn't chat while belaying, and can't chat while climbing, then I essentially would lose all opportunity to chat at the crag because I'm typically either belaying or climbing 50 percent of the time. And since my ability to chat is my best asset, something else had to give.
Now I just don't chat when my partner is on something hard which gives me an average of 30% chat time at the crag...which I have learned to accept. Fortunately I haven't dropped anyone yet because then I would probably need to decrease this percentage. And THAT would suck.

Ha ha you're funny Michelle...

So about those TTR draws..?

GWG wrote:Have you used the Edelrid Eddy belay device? Expensive but pretty much idiot proof. My climbing partner has one which is the only experience I've had with it.

http://www.edelrid.de/en/sports/product ... /eddy.html

"A controlled descent with an emergency brake system eliminates the "panic pull“ syndrome which can lead to serious accidents." . . . The camming device will lock down on the rope if opened too far.

That thing blows

any suggestions. I already make weird noises.

I cut a fart in a crux once and it got my belayer's attention. Got attention from everyone around now that I think of it. My belayer almost fell over laughing though so may not be the best idea for safety.

Syphur wrote:

any suggestions. I already make weird noises.

I cut a fart in a crux once and it got my belayer's attention. Got attention from everyone around now that I think of it. My belayer almost fell over laughing though so may not be the best idea for safety.

He already does that and not just in the crux. Putting his shoes on, roping up, clipping the first, second, etc...

Blame is put on the Kashi, but I question it.

bcombs wrote:

Syphur wrote:

any suggestions. I already make weird noises.

I cut a fart in a crux once and it got my belayer's attention. Got attention from everyone around now that I think of it. My belayer almost fell over laughing though so may not be the best idea for safety.

He already does that and not just in the crux. Putting his shoes on, roping up, clipping the first, second, etc...

Blame is put on the Kashi, but I question it.

Dude... its not as bad as it used to be.

Andrew wrote:

bcombs wrote:

Syphur wrote: I cut a fart in a crux once and it got my belayer's attention. Got attention from everyone around now that I think of it. My belayer almost fell over laughing though so may not be the best idea for safety.

He already does that and not just in the crux. Putting his shoes on, roping up, clipping the first, second, etc...

Blame is put on the Kashi, but I question it.

Dude... its not as bad as it used to be.

It is called the Art of the Fart and can make all the difference between sending and failure. The tightening of your core muscles and the synergistic relaxation of your sphincter cause a phenomena known as the dyno-boost. Andrew, you should be proud that you have mastered this advanced climbing technique.