RRC Archives

tbwilsonky wrote:

Barnacle Ben wrote:I was also going to say it would climb like 10a on boulder canyon granite but would have a guidebook rating of 11b. I probably have the wrong audience for that remark though.

no, not at all. i personally find the cross-regional/cross-rock/cross-style/multi-temporal/pan-dimensional/cross-grading to be really helpful when parsing out the already-fuzzy world of red river grading. my guidebook notes for Ro Shampo, for instance, look like so:

Ro Shampo---
Guidebook: 12a
1997: 11b
8a: soft
hp40: v1
hp40 in 2002: v6
if it were limestone: 12d


and so on and so forth. it might seem like overkill, but i have total objective recall of every climbing event i've ever experienced... so it's really no hassle.

JR wrote:I can only think of one Muir valley route that was stiff for the grade. Name Dropper. A Kenny B joint. Go figure. The one route he didn't slap a 13b on. To be fair, it might just be a little height dependent.

dustonian wrote:sorry Andrew, gotta throw it in there--Freakin' Deacon 12a.

Andrew wrote:He is stating that Ro would get an hp40 grade of V1, but in 2002 in hp40 it would be graded V6. He is saying that everything in HP40 was significantly down graded over the years, as it was inflated previously. amiright?

Andrew wrote:It just proves I don't know how to grade routes